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Johor Bahru
Johor Bahru'''Johor Bahru''' ('''JB''') is the capital of the state of Johor in Malaysia, just across the Causeway from Singapore. A bustling city but one with little of interest for the casual tourist, it is a significant regional transport hub.
==Understand==
Declared a city only in 1994, Johor Bahru is a rapidly growing city. Latest census figures indicates that it is fast becoming Malaysia's second largest city with a population of over one million. Due to its proximity to Singapore, it suffers from unavoidable comparison with its more sterile, squeaky-clean neighbour. Recent cleanup initiatives like greening the city and covering the open sewer that until a few years ago ran through the center of the city have made it a more pleasant place to live in. Though appreciably less organised and more messy when compared to squeaky-clean glitz of Singapore, it nevertheless can stand on its own in terms of the many attractions the city and its vicinity has to offer. Eating and shopping in the city can be an adventure with a wide variety of food establishments offering budget to fine dining and many shopping complexes.
==Get in==
Most visitors to Johor Bahru arrive from Singapore via one of two land links.
{{infobox|Immigration formalities|You will need to fill up an immigration card to enter Malaysia, so the first thing to do at the Malaysian checkpoint is to walk ''past'' the long queue and get one from the immigration officers. Ask for more cards if you want to make a return visit someday. Fill the form, then join the queue. If you are too lazy to fill the form, usually there is an old guy sitting nearby offering help for S$1.}}
* The '''Causeway''' linking Malaysia and Singapore is a very popular but terminally congested entry point connecting directly into the heart of Johor Bahru though in recent years, efforts have been taken by the Malaysian authorities to ease the congestion of traffic entering Malaysia. The Causeway can be crossed by bus, train, taxi, car or foot.
* A second crossing between Malaysia and Singapore, known imaginatively as the '''Second Link''', has been built between western Singapore and Malaysia. Much faster and less congested than the Causeway, it is used by some of the luxury bus services to Kuala Lumpur and is strongly recommended if you have your own car. There is no public transport across the Second Link, and only Malaysian "limousine" taxis are allowed to cross it (and charge RM150 and up for the privilege). Walking across is also not allowed, not that there would be any practical means to continue the journey from either end if you did.
===By plane===
'''[http://www.senaiairport.com/ Senai Airport]''' ('''JHB''') is located to the northwest of Johor Bahru. Flights to Malaysian and Indonesian destinations from Senai are considerably cheaper than those from Singapore, but transport links are rather poor since Singapore has blocked all attempts to provide direct service to what it views as a competitor.
The only exception is Malaysian Airlines, which has a direct bus service which runs from the Copthorne Orchid Hotel (214 Dunearn Road) to the airport. The bus fare to Senai Airport is S$12 and the bus ride is approximately 2 hours; note that this service is available ''only'' to MAS ticket holders, and you have to call Malaysian Airlines at +65-63366777 to book a seat on the bus. For the flight and corresponding bus schedules, check Malaysian Airlines' Singapore website at '''[http://www.malaysiaairlines.com.sg MAS Singapore]'''.
For other travelers, the cheapest option is to travel to the Kotaraya terminal (S$1 on Causeway Link buses) and transfer to a free shuttle bus (every 30 minutes) via the '''[http://www.senaiairport.com/city_lounge.html Senai Airport City Lounge]'''. Alternatively, if you're in a hurry, you can take an ordinary Malaysian taxi for RM40 or so after crossing the Causeway. From JB to Senai takes around 30 minutes in good traffic, but schedule in some leeway as rush hour traffic can be quite bad.
If you plan to take an early morning flight (a couple of flights starting 7 am from JHB) from Senai and you are travelling from Singapore, things can get tough as the earliest bus leaves the City Lounge at 5:30am and reaches the airport around 6:10am. You have the option of staying in JB for the night. You also have the option of booking a taxi that takes you directly to the airport or to the City Lounge at Kotaraya, but this will cost you; see #By taxi|By taxi below. It is recommended that you plan these carefully, the variables and the risks involved in this morning rush is pretty high.
===By train===
The KTM Johor Bahru railway station is located about 5 minutes walk directly north from the Malaysian checkpoint. Train tickets leaving from JB are half price those leaving from Singapore.
KTM trains from Singapore into Malaysia also cross the Causeway, but on separate right of way and are thus immune from the traffic jams. On the flip side, Malaysian immigration is conducted at the Tanjong Pagar station in Singapore, but you will be required to disembark with all your luggage and pass through the Singaporean checkpoint at Woodlands. Trains are also very slow (the trip takes an hour) and very infrequent with only half a dozen services daily, but at RM2.90 one way to central Tanjong Pagar the price can't be beat.
A long-awaited project [http://gsb.jkr.gov.my/en/index.html] to construct a new integrated terminal to replace the old, dilapidated train station is scheduled to start in 2005.
===By bus===
The most popular option of all is to cross the Causeway on one of the following five buses:
* Causeway Link CW-1, from Kranji MRT station in Singapore
* SBS 170, from Queen St or Kranji MRT station in Singapore
* SBS 160, from Jurong East MRT or Kranji MRT station in Singapore
* SMRT 950, from Woodlands MRT in Singapore
* Singapore-Johor Express, from Queen St in Singapore
All buses make two stops: at Singapore immigration and at Malaysian immigration. At both immigration points, you must disembark with all your luggage and pass through passport control and customs, then board the next bus by showing your ticket.
Long-distance buses from Johor Bahru to other points in West Malaysia depart from '''Larkin bus terminal''', located some 4 km north of the Causeway. CW-1, SBS 170, and Singapore-Johor Express all terminate here. A trip all way to Larkin costs S$1.30 by Causeway Link and a little more with the others, while the reverse trip into Singapore is only RM 1.30. The Singapore-Johor Express is the priciest of the lot at S$2.40, but there are no extra stops along the way.
SBS 160 and SMRT 950 terminate at Kotaraya II Terminal, near the heart of the city.
===By taxi===
Normal Singaporean taxis are '''not allowed''' to cross into Malaysia (and vice versa). Specially licensed Singaporean taxis permitted to go to a single point in JB can be booked by phone (Comfort Taxi, tel. +6565521111), while Malaysian taxis (which can go anywhere in Malaysia) can be taken from Rochor Rd at premium rates. A combination ride from anywhere in Singapore to anywhere in Malaysia can also be arranged, but you'll need to swap cabs halfway through: this will cost S$40 and up, paid to the Singaporean driver.
You can also opt to '''share taxis''' from Rochor Rd, which usually works out to around S$7 per person with four people. The main advantage here is that you don't need to lug your stuff (or yourself) through Customs at both ends; you can just sit in the car.
The most expensive option is to take a '''limousine taxi''' specially licensed to take passengers from any point to any destination, but only a few are available and they charge a steep RM150 per trip. Advance booking is highly recommended, tel. +607-5991622.
===By car===
Driving a car from Singapore to Malaysia is relatively uncomplicated, although small tolls are charged for both crossing and (for the Second Link) the adjoining expressway. Do be sure to change some ringgit before crossing, as Singapore dollars are accepted only at the unfavorable rate of 1:1.
Entering Singapore with a foreign-registered car is more complicated and expensive. You will need to purchase a S$10 AutoPass (AP) card and use it pay a Vehicle Entry Permit of S$20 per day (weekdays only) and either rent an In-vehicle Unit (IU) for payment of road pricing charges or pay a flat fee of S$5 per day. See the LTA's [http://www.lta.gov.sg/motoring_matters/index_motoring_guide.htm Driving Into & Out of Singapore] guide for the today's bureaucratic details.
In both directions, note that rental cars will frequently ban or charge extra for crossing the border.
===On foot===
The 2-km Causeway can also be crossed on foot in about 15 minutes. This is particularly popular on Friday evenings when traffic into Malaysia can be backed up for kilometers on end.
==Get around==
Johor Bahru's public transport is limited to a sparse bus network. Various proposals for relieving the chronically congested town's traffic remain on the drawing board.
===By taxi===
Traveling by taxi is a fairly cheap alternative, although you are likely to encounter some difficulty in convincing your cabbie to use his meter. With metered starting fares around RM 2, trips around town shouldn't cost much more than RM 5.
===By bus===
You can take a bus to move around the city, e.g. to Holiday Plaza or Plaza Pelangi shopping mall. However, there is no clear sign of the bus stops. Just follow the crowds and wait alongside the locals for the bus. Look at the direction sign in the bus and don't hesitate to ask the bus driver directly. Usually the driver asks RM 1 for a trip, although I feel the locals pay less than that.
===On foot===
Johor Bahru is a remarkably pedestrian-hostile city, although the city core is now mostly navigateable via underpasses and walkways.
==See==
* '''Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque'''. A Mosque built in the royal British architecture style, that is a reminder that Malaysia was once a British colony.
* '''Johor Zoo'''. Located across from the Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque. A run down zoo that provides a dismal diversion to western tourists.
==Do==
*'''Join the Johor Society for the Performing Arts(JSPA)''' - The JSPA is a non-commercial Society dedicated to the advancement,promotion and development of the performing arts in Johor Bahru. All profits made from any of its programmes are ploughed back to further the aims of the Society. It was started by a group of performing arts lovers and became an official organization in February 2000. The JSPA has regularly brought in world class acts such as the Malaysian Philharmonic Orchestra. In March 2004, the JSPA organized the first ever Johor Arts Festival. There are plans to make the Arts Festival an annual affair. The JSPA Johor Arts Festival 2005 is scheduled for 12th August 2005 to 2nd September 2005 and plans are afoot to include a fringe festival.
==Buy==
Johor Bahru is full of shopping malls catering mostly to Singaporean shoppers. Selections are somewhat limited when compared to the island state's offerings, but prices for Malaysian-produced goods can be half price or less.
* '''City Square'''. [http://www.city-square.com/]. JB's largest and glitziest mall, on Jalan Wong Ah Fook just across the train station, an easy walk from Malaysian customs.
* '''Holiday Plaza''' is a three-storey shopping mal at Jalan Dato Sulaiman, Century Garden. Take a taxi or bus to go here from Malaysian customs. This is the place to buy electronics, DVDs, and CDs at slightly cheaper price than those shops near the custom.
* '''Plaza Pelangi''' at Jalan Kuning is an upmarket shopping mall. It has a wide variety of branded fashion shops and nice restaurants/cafes.
* '''Plaza Kotaraya''' is withing walking distance from Malaysian customs. It is relatively old shopping centre compared to the nearby City Square. Visit the supermarket to find Malaysian products and groceries.
==Eat==
Johor Bahru is a popular destination for budget-conscious gourmands from Singapore, as most dishes are half price across the border. Most of food stalls and dining spots come alive when night falls over the city. Specialities include '''seafood''' and some Johor specialities like Johor ''laksa and ''mee rebus''.
For fine dining, visit: Chez Papa, Jalan Maju for French cuisine and a fine selection of wines and cheeses. The restaurant also offers a cosy and intimate wine bar; Ros Marino Ristorante, Jalan Damai for authentic Italian dishes like Osso Buco.
For value-for-money Western dining, check out Peach Garden at Melodies Garden. Specialty: Lamb Shanks. Close on Sundays.
===Budget===
* '''Restoran ZZ'''. 20 Jalan Sungei Chat (''off Jalan Mahmoodiah, behind Sultanah Aminah Hospital''), tel. +60 7224 0417. Popular Malay eatery with a daily-changing buffet, particularly known for their Johor-style ''laksa'' and ''ikan bakar'' (grilled fish), two can eat until stuffed for RM 10. Open daily for breakfast and lunch only. Located a fair distance from the center, so take a taxi.
* '''Lido Beach and Stulang Laut'''. For the adventurous, head for the stalls at Lido Beach and Stulang Laut to try the local favorites and hawker fare.
* '''Kolam Air Laksa'''. This is the best Laksa in JB/Singapore. Located at Jalan Kolam Air (the same road as the JB Hayat Hotel).
* '''Taman Pelangi Satay'''. One of the Malay hawker at the small hawker center opposite the Pelangi Mosque/Caltex Petro kiosk/Pelangi Leisure Mall. only RM0.40 per stick!!
===Midrange===
* '''Eden Floating Palace Restaurant'''. An exciting place to dine is at the Eden Floating Palace Restaurant, anchored off the Johor Duty Free Complex. This restaurant is a unique dining and entertainment center serving fine Malaysian Chinese food where diners can pick their choice of seafood and vegetables from a market style setting have it cooked for them. The restaurant can accommodate up to 1,100 guests.
===Refreshment===
* '''Roti Boy'''. A light brown bun similar to Mexican bun, served fresh from oven. Eat the bun while it is hot. The bun is popular in Malaysia and Singapore, so expect a long queue during certain times. There is an outlet at City Square, close to the customs.
==Drink==
Bert's Keller, located at Jalan Pelandok, Century Garden is a cosy and intimate, no-nonsense pub with great food, serving the best ox-tail stew in the city and live music on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
==Sleep==
There is plenty of accommodation in Johor Bahru, just look for signs that say Hotel, Chalets, Budget Accommodations or ''Rumah Tumpangan''. The cost of an average room is around RM 50/night, you may get more value for your money outside Johor Bahru though (eg. in Johor Jaya or Kulai)
==Contact==
* '''JOTIC'''. Jalan Ayer Molek, tel. +60 72251387. The official Johor tourism information center is a tiny office in a sprawling, empty building, a fair hike from the city center. Closed Sundays.
==Get out==
If getting out by car via the Causeway to Singapore, be prepared for the perennial congestion and traffic jam (especially on weekends and peak travel time) at the Singapore end of the Causeway and any appointments in Singapore or transit to Changi Airport should take into account such delays at the Singapore checkpoint.
==External links==
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