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Krakow
Krakow'''Krakow''' (also spelled as ''Cracow'', in Polish ''Kraków'', pronounced ''KRA-koov'' (roll the 'r', short 'a')) is a large, attractive and historical city in southern Poland located on the river Vistula. Population 750,000, metropolitan area 1.2 million. For many people, it is the most beautiful city in Poland - it has it's very own atmosphere, which cannot be compared to any other place in the country.
==Districts==
*the Krakow/Old City|Old City
*Krakow/Kazimierz|Kazimierz
==Understand==
===History===
'''Krakow''' is a charming city in Poland. The former capital of Poland (before Warsaw), Krakow's castle on the '''Wawel''' hill (at the southern end of Krakow old town) was the center of royal ceremonial throughout the years of Poland's greatness and decline from c. 1300 to 1795. The city itself has a relaxed, student-like feel and an excellent cultural and theatrical life. One of central Europe's oldest universities, the [http://www.uj.edu.pl/index.en.html Jagiellonian University] (established 1364), is located in Krakow. Unlike Warsaw and so many other Polish cities, Krakow was fortunately spared destruction by the retreating Germans, although it didn't escape the Soviets, who built a vast steel mill (Nowa Huta) on one edge of the city, in an effort to destroy its intellectual and elitist atmosphere.
Located at the centre of a major rail system centered on the coal mines of nearby Silesia, Krakow is somewhat haunted by its proximity to Auschwitz, the most notorious of the Nazi extermination camps. The city's image (and Poland's image) suffers from its use by the Nazis as a site for the extermination of the Jews. The Nazis considered the city and its surroundings an annex of Germany, called the General Government, and its famously cruel ruler, Franck, governed from the Wawel during the years of Nazi occupation.
The history of the city and area (and its relationships with the large local Jewish community) provide a great deal of human interest, and even optimism, to set against the dark effect of one of the century's great crimes. Recommended reading on Poland as a whole - ''Heart of Europe'' by Norman Davies.
==Get in==
===By plane===
Krakow's airport, located some 11 km from the city centre, is Krakow-Balice International Airport ('''KRK''') - also known as John Paul II International Airport (''Miedzynarodowy Port Lotniczy im. Jana Pawla II Kraków-Balice''). Bus 192 (turn right out of the terminal building) transfers passengers from the airport to the city centre (single tickets 2.90 zl).
===By train===
If you arrive in Krakow '''by train''', try to avoid the swindlers preying on gullible tourists as they arrive at the station. Maybe you got lucky at the Prague train station and met a helpful matron there who rented you a lovely room during your stay in The Czech Republic. Well, this isn't Prague. Be especially careful if you're arriving in town on an early morning train (pickpocketers).
The city Information Office is just three minutes walk from the station in St Jana street.
==Get around==
===By foot===
Much of Krakow (or at least the part frequented by travellers) can be negotiated by foot - the best way to explore the old city and its surrounding districts.
===By Bus===
If you don't speak Polish, navigating the Krakow bus system may seem intimidating - but it can be done!
===By tram===
Tramway network covers almost all Cracow. Navigating trouble is similar to the bus one.
A great resource for all bus and tram travellers is the website of [http://www.komunikacja.krakow.pl/ Krakowska Encyclopedia Komunikacji]. It is unfortunately in Polish, but some clicking (and web translating tools) can give you access to all routes, maps and timetables you could ever wish.
==See==
===Landmarks===
*the '''Krakow/Old City|Old City''' (''Stare Miasto'')
**the '''Rynek Glowny''' (Main Marketplace) - one of the biggest mediaeval squares in the world is at the heart of the Old City, currently being repaved and beautified, festooned with churches, restaurants and bars
**'''Wawel Castle''' - [http://www.wawel.krakow.pl/emenu.htm] ancient seat of the Polish kings and now a major museum
*'''Krakow/Kazimierz|Kazimierz''' - the Jewish suburb south of the Wawel, scene of many of the events in ''Schindler's List''
===Museums and Galleries===
*the '''Krakow National Museum''' (''Muzeum Narodowe'') - [http://www.muzeum.krakow.pl/] one of the best collections of 19th century paintings in Poland (website currently in Polish only)
*The '''Czartoryski Museum''' - [http://www.czartoryski.org/museum.htm] former town house of one of Poland's great families, and proud owner of the famous da Vinci portrait, ''Lady with an Ermine''
* Bunker of Modern Art (Bunkier Sztuki Wspolczesnej), gallery of contemporary art very near city center. There is also book shop and nice cafe in the "bunker".
*Cracow has many other museums and galleries spread around Old City like Archaeological Museum or Armia Krajowa Museum, just to name a few. All over Old Town one can find campus parts of third oldest university in the world - Jagiellonian University - you are free to enter (and leave) all buildings at your choice (mind the students milling around every day of the week).
===Surroundings===
*Auschwitz - (pl. 'Oswiecim') site of the infamous Nazi death-camp, located some 60 km east of Krakow outside the city of Oswiecim. With museum.
*Wieliczka - [http://www.kopalnia-wieliczka.pl/english/] is a town known for its ancient salt mines, now a museum. It is easily accessible from Krakow by car, bus or train (trip from Krakow should take less then 30 minutes).
==Do==
==Buy==
*[http://www.reserved.pl Reserved] is a Polish clothing brand with several stores in the city center. It is exporting its casual wear only to Europe, so if you want some original stuff, be sure to visit it.
==Eat==
Kraków's cuisine has been influenced by countless cultures inhabiting central Europe and the Austro-Hungarian empire.
If you want to try Polish cuisine for outstandingly good-value prices (a big lunch for one person for ca 8 zloty) then try 'Bar mleczny' (''bar mleczny'' means ''milk bar'', a kind of cafeteria very prevalent in Communist times) on the right side of Grodzka street (if you are going from Rynek Glowny). They offer classical Polish food such as 'kroketka'. English-Polish dictionary is recommended when ordering.
''Zurek'' is a buttery soup often with bits of kielbasa sausage. ''Barszcz'' is like the Russian ''borscht'', a soup made with beetroot -- very savory.
You won't see this in most guides, but one of the true joys of a trip to Krakow is a visit to the ''kielbasa van''. Basically, it's these two gruff Polish men who, every night from 9pm to 3am, set up a fire grill outside of their van (parked in front of the market east of the old town near the train bridge) and grill kielbasa. For a few zlotty, get your sausage and a squirt of mustard and stand at the perch nearby and chow down with the locals in-the-know. Let me tell you, it is delicious, especially after a night of exploring Krakowian bars. A fun experience free of the usual tourist crush and off the main paths. (note: this is true! I'm from Krakow. It's on ul. Grzegorzecka, opposite ul. Blich)
*'''Wierzynek Restaurant''' [http://www.wierzynek.com.pl/]
==Drink==
A '''tatanka''' is a unique (and delicious) Polish beverage made with apple juice and a special kind of vodka called '''zubrowka''', which is flavored with bison grass.
===Bars===
Kazimierz, the old Jewish part of town just to the southeast of the old town, has been rejuvenated recently and features several interesting watering holes, including:
*'''Propaganda''' (ul. Miodowa 20), a tongue-in-cheek preservation of Warsaw Pact-era ambience, posters and drinks
*'''Singer''', a former sewing factory featuring actual sewing machine tables
===Cafes===
Krakow is not only full of cosy cafes, but is also said to be the place of the first Cafe founded in Europe. Most cafes offer good espresso and something to it as well as something to nibble at a very reasonable price. As a rule, international-looking places are much more expensive.
*'''Dym'''
*'''Loch Camelot''' with naive art pictures and good ''szarlotka''
*'''Lokator''' is cafe, gallery and pub - all in one. Cafe and pub are separated, the cafe part hosts cultural events (concerts, etc.) http://www.lokator.pointblue.com.pl/
==Sleep==
Don't try too hard to save money on accommodations when you're in Krakow. If you don't want Kraków to become your worst experience, try to avoid hotels and hostels located in the ''Nowa Huta'' district; most of them are former shelters for part-time industry workers. Be sure to check the accommodation before agreeing to pay for it-- some backpackers have ended up with filthy rooms complete with biting bedbugs!
There are plenty of decent clean backpacker hostels within a stone's throw of the old city - [http://www.blingbling.pl Bling-Bling], [http://www.dizzydaisy.pl/ Dizzy Daisy], [http://www.mamashostel.com.pl Mama's Hostel] and [http://www.nathansvilla.com Nathan's Villa] are all quite decent. Expect to pay 40-60zl for a dorm bed, inclunding breakfast (bread, jam and cheese), laundry, sheets, lockers and internet.
A good way to stay in Krakow is to rent private accommodation. Usually the same price as an overcrowded hostel but nicer. There are two agencies opposite the main train station offering rooms. If you hang around the street outside the agencies for a while, some landlords will approach you and make an offer. Saves you the commission, but may be a bit unsafe.
==Get out==
* '''Bochnia''' - historic salt mine, older than Wieliczka's one. 40 km from Kraków. Must see. SK-BUS minibuses from Krakow Main Railway Station (Dworzec Glówny), or train (way: Tarnów, or Nowy Sacz/Krynica).
* '''Tarnow''' - the second largest city in region with the beautiful main market
* Auschwitz|'''Auschwitz-Birkenau''' Nazi camp in Oswiecim|Oswiecim, 60 km outside the city. Leave a whole day for this if you want to go. Frequent and inexpensive buses from the main bus station. Also most hotels and travel agents in Krakow can arrange hassle-free coach tours to the former camp.
* '''Wieliczka''' - historic salt mine. 10 km from Kraków. Must see. LUX-BUS minibuses from Krakow Main Railway Station (Dworzec Glówny).
==External links==
*[http://www.krakow.pl/en/ Official Krakow website (in English)]
fr:Cracovie
WikiPedia:Krakow
Dmoz:Europe/Poland/Voivodships/Malopolska/Krakow
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