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Kuala Lumpur
Kuala LumpurImage:KLCC_PetronasTowers.JPG|thumb|Petronas Twin Towers
'''Kuala Lumpur''' (or simply '''KL''') is the capital of Malaysia and also a major tourist destination in Southeast Asia. Literally meaning "muddy estuary" in Malay, it has grown from a small sleepy village to a bustling metropolis in just 50 years.
==Understand==
===Orientation===
Kuala Lumpur is a fairly sprawling city for its size. For many visitors the center of the city lies in the '''Golden Triangle''', between Jalan Sultan Ismail, Jalan Bukit Bintang and Jalan Ampang: this is where most of the city's shopping malls, five-star hotels and trendiest nightspots are, and the '''KLCC''' development home to the famous '''Petronas Twin Towers''' is at the northern edge. But the traditional core of the city lies more to the south, where '''Merdeka Square''' has many of KL's best-preserved colonial buildings and '''Chinatown''' bustles with activity late into the night. Further south yet, the suburb of '''Bangsar''' is a popular restaurant and clubbing district.
==Districts==
==Get in==
===By plane===
All jet flights, domestic and international, arrive at '''[http://www.klia.com.my/ Kuala Lumpur International Airport]''' ('''KLIA''', IATA code '''KUL'''), a brand new airport built at a cost of some US $2.5 billion dollars and inaugurated in 1999. It has been consistently ranked as one of the top airports in the world because of its design, even hosting a miniature rainforest in the middle of the terminal and an F1 circuit for automobile racing.
The airport is located about 50 km (45 minutes) south of the city, which makes it a bit far to be convenient. The main ways of travelling from the airport is either by the new train KLIA Ekspres, or by taxi.
On the way to the airport, consider checking in at the '''KL City Air Terminal''' ('''KLCAT''') at KL Sentral, after which you can connect by train to the airport without your luggage to drag you down. Note that you must complete check-in at least 2 hours before your flight, and currently only Malaysia Airlines, Royal Brunei and Cathay Pacific flights are eligible.
====Train from KLIA====
The '''[http://www.kliaekspres.com/ KLIA Ekspres]''' is a fast rail connection between the airport and KL Sentral station, taking 28 minutes for the nonstop trip. The base price is RM35 one way per person, no return discount. It operates from 5:00 am to 12 midnight, and runs every 15 minutes at peak, and every 20 minutes at off-peak hours (09:00-16:00, 22:00-00:00).
The half-hourly '''KLIA Transit''' service (running on the same tracks) also stops at 3 intermediate stations including Putrajaya. The trip takes 36 minutes and normally costs the same as the Ekspres, but the Transit also offers a "2-Adult Return" fare for RM 98.
====Taxi from KLIA====
The taxis are fixed price to get into the city, and you can buy a voucher at the "Airport Taxi" counters. Beware that there are several "grades" of taxi, and all too often, the sellers will sell a "premium" taxi ride (RM 92.10) without telling you there is a cheaper option of a "budget" cab (RM 67.10). When travelling singly, in pairs, or on a backpacker budget, the budget cabs should be the first choice. Sometimes the premium is worth it, as the budget cabs are often more run down, smaller in size and have anemic air conditioning. But this still does not excuse the airport kiosks from tricking the tourists into the higher grade. Caveat emptor. After hours - be aware that there is an extra 50% surcharge for taking a taxicab after midnight from KLIA.
The official cabs are fairly pricy by Malaysian standards, and the touts lurking about in the airport arrival hall may actually be able to offer you a cheaper deal... and no avenue to complain if something goes wrong.
====Subang Airport====
'''Sultan Abdul Aziz Shah Airport''' ('''SZB''') in Subang was formerly KL's main airport, but today it serves only turboprop and general aviation traffic. The largest operator by far is [http://www.berjaya-air.com/ Berjaya Air], which serves the island resorts of Tioman, Redang, Pangkor in Malaysia, as well as two flights weekly to Koh Samui, Thailand.
The airport is 25 km from the city center and the best way to get there is by taxi, but if you have much time and little luggage in your hands, Intrakota bus 47 from the Central Market may also be an option.
===By train===
KTM's intercity trains arrive at the new KL Sentral railway station, located (despite the name) a fair distance to the south of the city center. Take the Putra LRT or KL Monorail to the city center, or a RM 10 coupon taxi to most destinations in the city center.
===By bus===
Most buses arrive and depart from the cavernous and perennially crowded Puduraya station near Chinatown; watch out for pickpockets. The Plaza Rakyat station of the Star LRT is within walking distance. Some services have been shifted to a new terminal recently opened in Imbi.
The NICE luxury buses to Singapore, however, depart from the old Kuala Lumpur railway station.
==Get around==
The first phase of Kuala Lumpur's ambitious public transport system is now complete, but there's still a fair amount of room for progress.
===By train===
Image:Monorail_Station.JPG|thumb|KL Monorail
Kuala Lumpur's public transport system consists of the north-south [http://www.putralrt.com.my '''Putra LRT'''], the west-east [http://www.rapidkl.com.my/starlrt/main.html'''Star LRT'''], the semicircular [http://www.monorail.com.my '''KL Monorail'''] looping through the Golden Triangle and the
[http://www.ktmb.com.my/page.cfm?name=commuter '''KTM Kommuter'''] for trips to the outer northern, southern & western suburbs.
Fares are cheap (RM 1.20 and up), although connectivity is rather poor and there is no integrated ticketing. Some convenient stations include:
* Bukit Bintang (KL Monorail), for shopping in the Golden Triangle
* Bukit Nanas (KL Monorail), for clubbing at P. Ramlee
* KLCC (Putra), for the Twin Towers and the Suria KLCC shopping mall
* '''KL Sentral''' (Putra/KL Monorail/KTM Kommuter), for intercity trains and the KLIA Ekspres to the airport
* Masjid Jamek (Putra/Star), for access to Chinatown and Little India, and interchange between Putra and Star
* Plaza Rakyat (Star), for Puduraya bus station
''Note'': The KL Monorail's "KL Sentral" station is in fact a poorly signposted 250m away from the main station, and visitors with much luggage will probably wish to opt for a taxi instead.
RapidKL runs an extensive public bus network, but these are crowded, traffic-prone and poorly signposted.
===By taxi===
With RM 2.00 flagfall and RM 0.10 for every 200m after the first 2 km, taxicabs are not very expensive in Kuala Lumpur and are probably the best way to get around, at least outside the congested peak hours. Try to get the driver uses the meter, although this may be difficult when demand exceeds supply as most cabbies consider the official rates too low.
===By car===
Driving in Kuala Lumpur can be a nightmare, with heavy traffic, a convoluted web of expressways and poor signage to guide you through it all. Suicidal motorcyclists will also keep you on your toes.
Do not park at the road of busy districts such as Bangsar, Bukit Bintang etc.! Other cars might lock you in by parking in 2nd or 3rd line and will make it real hard to get out. Use covered parking lots or park a bit off the beaten path and then walk back.
===On foot===
KL is a notoriously pedestrian-hostile city, with heavy traffic and very few pedestrian crossings. Walking within some districts (eg. Chinatown and Bukit Bintang) is feasible but walking long distance generally is not. Beware of pickpockets and bag-snatchers on motorbikes in the Bukit Bintang area.
==See==
Kuala Lumpur is one of those cities which are a little short on must-see attractions: the real joy lies in wandering randomly, seeing, shopping and eating your way through it.
*'''Petronas Twin Towers'''. Putra LRT: KLCC. Until recently the tallest structures in the world, they are now second only to the newly built Taipei 101 building in Taipei (the capital of Taiwan), but are still among the most spectacular. Visitors may pick up passes to marvel at the view from the Skybridge, one of the highest suspended bridges in the world.
* '''Petrosains'''. KLCC level 4, [http://www.petrosains.com.my/]. A surprisingly well done exhibit of the science and technology behind the petroleum industry and more, and a great place to bring kids. Adults RM12, teens RM7, children RM4; you must book your tickets at least 30 minutes in advance (and expect queues on weekends).
*'''KL Tower''' (''Menara KL''). Jalan Punchak, [http://www.menarakl.com.my/]. The observation deck on the top floor provides great city views, and you'll be a few meters higher than the Twin Towers since the tower is built on a hill. Entry to the observation deck costs RM15 and is open from 9 AM to 10 PM daily; for a free bonus, check out the wonderfully bombastic free film on the tower's construction, screened in a little cinema on the tower ground floor.
* '''Chan She Shu Yuen Clan Association''' (aka '''Green Temple'''). Jalan Petaling. The clan house (''kongsi'') of the Yuen family, this is the largest and oldest in KL, with the present version completed in 1906. Free admission (but donations welcome), open daily from 8 AM to 5 PM.
* '''Sri Mahamariamman Temple'''. Jalan Tun HS Lee. An elaborate Hindu temple known as the starting point of the yearly Thaipusam pilgrimage to the Batu Caves. Check out the elaborate ''gopuram'' above the entrance. Free admission (but donations welcome).
==Do==
==Buy==
Image:Chinatown_Market.JPG|thumb|240px|Street market, Jalan Petaling
*'''Chinatown''' and its main street '''Jalan Petaling''' - Known as Chi-Cheong-Kai to the local Chinese. Lots of food and souvenirs stalls here. A mosque known as Masjid Jamek is at walking distance. (Star LRT: Masjid Jamek or PUTRA LRT: Pasar Seni). An excellent place to look around surreptitiously for pirated DVD vendors.
* '''Golden Triangle''' (Bukit Bintang) - a district of large shopping centers including Lot 10, Sungei Wang and BB Plaza, catering to all tastes (KL Monorail: Bukit Bintang)
*'''KLCC/Suria Shopping Center''' is connected to the Petronas Twin Towers. It is an upscale shopping center which has quickly become one of the top hangout-spots in KL. (Putra LRT: KLCC)
* '''Berjaya Time Square''' - claims to be the large shopping mall in South-East Asia, complete with indoor rollercoaster & IMAX theater (KL Monorail: Imbi)
* '''One Utama''' - one of the largest malls in the area, near TTDI.
* '''Mid Valley Megamall''' - large mall near KLIA Ekspres (KTM Komuter: Mid-Valley).
* '''Low Yat Plaza''' - place for computer hardwares, game consoles and handphones (KL Monorail: Imbi or Bukit Bintang)
==Eat==
The full panoply of Malaysian and Singaporean cuisine is available in Kuala Lumpur; see the page for more details. Kuala Lumpur is particularly well known for dark Klang-style ''bak kut teh'' and Ampang ''yong tau foo''.
===Budget===
* Head to '''Jalan Petaling''' in the evening (or morning, or lunchtime!) to sample cheap and tasty Chinese hawker fare. Pick any popular stall and try it out; there are particularly many ''bak kut teh'' joints around here.
* '''Jalan Alor''' in the Golden Triangle (Bukit Bintang) is another hawker center especially in the evening hours. The entire street is jammed on both sides with hawker stalls and restaurants (mainly Chinese) some of them open all night. Most places offers menus with photos of the dishes.
===Mid-range===
* The '''Lot 10 food court''', in the basement of the shopping mall at the intersection of Jalan Bukit Bintang and Sultan Ismail, provides an excellent spread of Malaysian food in hygienic and air-conditioned comfort at prices that are only slightly above those outdoors.
* Also check out the upper food level at the '''Suria KLCC''' mall.
===Splurge===
*'''Coliseum Cafe and Bar''' (98 Jln. Tuanku Abdul Rahman)- Old hangout from colonial times that serves Western food, although the quality has gone down recently as management changes.
*'''Seri Angkasa'''. Atop the KL Tower, [http://www.serimelayu.com/angkasa.htm]. A revolving restaurant that has a good reputation, but is (inevitably) fairly steeply priced. The RM55++ lunch buffet is comparatively good value.
==Drink==
'''Jalan P. Ramlee''' near Bukit Bintang is Kuala Lumpur's central clubbing district (KL Monorail: Bukit Nanas/Raja Chulan). Famous clubs in the area include:
* '''Beach Club'''. 97 Jalan P Ramlee. The city's most infamous meat market and pickup joint.
* '''Nouvo'''. 16 Jalan P Ramlee, [http://www.nouvoclub.com/]
* '''Zouk'''. 113 Jalan Ampang, [http://www.zoukclub.com.my/]. A branch of the famous Singaporean club, opened in 2004.
'''Changkat Bukit Bintang''' is semi-clubbing area across the Radius International Hotel in Bukit Bintang. There are a few pubs who also have live music on Tuesdays and Fridays
'''Bangsar''', to the south of the city, is one of the busiest places in Kuala Lumpur past midnight. Definitely the place to go for clubbing and deafening music. This is a very crowded place at night - it might be better not to come by car or to park in the surrounding living area. Avoid the "valet" parking offered in Bangsar.
Other zones with nightlife include:
*'''Sri Hartamas'''
*'''Mont Kiara'''
*'''Bar Savanh'''
Found all around the city, '''mamak stalls''' are wonderful places to hang out with locals and it is possible to stay at one far past midnight. They are run by muslim Indians. They serve a variety of drinks and beverages, and the non-alcoholic options are varied and inexpensive.
==Sleep==
===Budget===
Most of KL's budget accommodation is clustered in Chinatown, where a bed for the night can be as little as RM20. Avoid any hotels marked ''Rumah Tumpangan'' instead of ''Hotel''; these are dodgy boarding houses for foreign workers.
Another center for budget accommodation is the ''Golden Triangle'' (Bukit Bintang area) where prices are slightly higher than in Chinatown. However, the area is the entertainment, shopping and dining center of KL. Budget accommodations here tend to be more spacious and cozy.
* '''Heritage Hotel''' in KL's beautiful old railway station (one stop away from KL Sentral) offers backpacker packages starting as low as RM18 with breakfast. The facilities are modest but acceptable, and the old, slightly ramshackle building makes up for it. Full hotel rooms start at RM60.
*'''Red Palm''', 5 Tengkat Tong Shing (''Bukit Bintang''), 03 - 214 31 279. A small hostel in a historical 2-storey building in the ''Golden Triangle'' (Bukit Bintang). It has basic but clean rooms upstairs and offers broadband internet and a hang-out lounge downstairs. There is a bbq area in front of the house. Hawker center ''Jalan Alor'' (1 min walk), Shopping and Entertainment Center ''Jalan Bukit Bintang'' (3 min) and ''Puduraya Bus Terminal'' (8min) are close by. Rm25-65 (''dorm room to twin double''). http://www.redpalm-kl.com/
===Mid-range===
* '''Seasons' View'''. Jalan Alor (''near Bukit Bintang''), [http://www.seasonsview.com/]. A well-located mid-range hotel offering rooms starting at RM75.
* '''Concorde'''. Jalan Sultan Ismail, [http://www.concorde.net/kl/]. Three-star hotel getting a little scruffy around the edges, but still pretty good value in the RM150-200 price bracket. Pool and all you'd expect, plus the popular Hard Rock Cafe downstairs. Within easy walking distance of Jalan P Ramlee's nightspots and the Bukit Nanas monorail station.
===Luxury===
KL has a deserved reputation as one of the world's cheapest places to experience five-star luxury, with rooms available (at the right time and with the right discounts) for as little as RM250 (US$65+). Most of KL's best hotels are located in the Golden Triangle.
The Golden Triangle is the place to be, within walking distance of most things that people would want to do. By contrast, be warned that KL Sentral is quite a way away from the centre of town.
* '''JW Marriott'''. 183 Jalan Bukit Bintang, tel. 03 2715 9000, [http://marriott.com/property/propertyPage/KULDT]. Marriott's flagship hotel in Kuala Lumpur, decorated in a Malaysian style and conveniently located on Jalan Bukit Bintang near the shopping district.
* '''Renaissance'''. Corner of Jln Sultan Ismail and Jln Ampang, tel. 1800 807706, [http://www.renaissance-kul.com/]. Five-star hotel at the edge of the Golden Triangle, accessible by monorail and LRT. The Renaissance Wing is older, while the New World wing is newer and more modern. Rates from RM300 and up.
* '''Westin'''. Jalan Bukit Bintang (''immediately adjacent to the Marriott''), tel. 03 2731 8333, [http://westin.com/kualalumpur]. A brand-new (2003) 5-star hotel offering a splendid view of the Twin Towers. Extremely modern and well-equipped but a little anonymous, with nothing but the view to remind you that you're in Malaysia.
* '''Le Meridien'''. Adjacent to the KL Sentral train station, this luxury hotel opened in 2004 has a splendid lobby and rooms offering contemporary luxury. It shares spa and pool facilities with the Hilton next door.
* '''Hilton'''. Stylish new luxury hotel adjacent to the KL Sentral train station and the Le Meridien. The Hilton has funky, trendy rooms with open bathrooms and Flatscreen TV. Plenty of restaurants and a cool executive lounge on the 33rd floor. Spa and pool shared with the Le Meridien.
*'''Mandarin Oriental''', [http://www.mandarinoriental.com/hotel/516000001.asp]. This is a fairly new hotel in what is probably the best location in KL - adjacent to the Twin Towers, a 50 acre park, and the KLCC shopping mall (the largest in central KL and the most fashionable one of the moment). Whilst primarily for business travellers, tourists will be well accommodated for. The restaurants are some of the best in KL, there is a nice infinity pool over the park, and to top it all, the rates often undercut some of the other hotels, such as the Westin.
==Get out==
* Putrajaya, Malaysia's new capital, is under construction some 30 km to the south along the way to the airport.
* Genting Highlands, 40 minutes by road, has cooler weather, theme parks for the kids and a casino for the adults.
*'''Batu Caves'''. Just outside the city, Hindu priests have used these very ancient caves as temples for thousands of years. They contain a large number of beautiful and fascinating statues of the Hindu Gods. Hire a sound guide if you are interested in the stories behind the colorful statues, as they will teach you all of the symbolism which is part of the statues which you would otherwise miss, such as the fact that the creature that Shiva is standing on is actually the dwarf of inner complacency! Beware of the smelly monkeys and bat droppings in the cave, though. The stairs that take you up to the cave is about 300 steps.
*'''Fire Flies near Kuala Selangor'''. About 1 hour drive north-west of KL. In Kampung Kuantan and Kampung Bukit Belimbing (5 min outside of Kuala Selangor) you can do a river tour from 7pm until midnight to see the natural light show of the fire flies (Malay: kelip-kelip) in the mangroves. As their flashing becomes sychronised you can see entires trees flashing in the banks for Sungai (River) Selangor. There are also many good sea food restaurants in Kuala Selangor and you can play with monkeys in the park (the hill opposite the river).
==External links==
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