New Orleans/French QuarterThe '''French Quarter''' is the oldest and most famous and visited neighborhood of New Orleans. It was laid out in French and Spanish colonial times in the 18th century. While it has many hotels, restaurants, and businesses catering to visitors, it is best appreciated when you recall that it is still a functioning mixed-use residential/commercial neighborhood where locals live. ==Understand== The French Quarter or "Vieux Carre" ("old section" in French) stretches along the Mississippi River from Canal Street to Esplanade Avenue (14 blocks long) and back from the Mississippi to Rampart Street (7 blocks wide). "The Quarter" is compact. One can spend an enjoyable vacation here without leaving it for several days. If the French Quarter is your headquarters, consider leaving your car behind and not bothering to rent one if your health permits a few blocks walk. Parking is difficult, expensive, or both. Occasional trips to other parts of town can be made by streetcar or cab. The neighborhood is pedestrian friendly. Take care walking at night, particularly on dark or deserted streets. If you've been drinking, a cab is advisable. The "Upper Quarter" (between Canal Street and Jackson Square) is the area most patronized by visitors, but the "Lower Quarter" (between Jackson Square and Esplanade Avenue) also has shops and restaurants sprinkled amongst the residences. ==Get in== ==See== *'''Bourbon Street''' - some 8 blocks of Bourbon from Canal Street down are given over to catering to the hard drinking tourists. If getting drunk with other tourists is the goal of your vacation, this is the place for you. If not, this notorious strip of tourist traps is worth a quick look for its colorful sleaziness. *'''Royal Street''' - strolling Royal Street by day is as essential a New Orleans experience as Bourbon Street by night. 1 block away in distance, a world in attitude. There are art galleries, upscale antique stores, and interesting specialty shops, Lots of temptations for those with money, but is also fun window shopping for those not spending a dime. *'''Jackson Square''' - the old town square, often live music is going on here, as well as streetcorner painters and tarot readers. Around the square are: **'''Cabildo''' - colonial city hall, now a museum; Louisiana Purchase agreements transferring the city from France to the USA were signed here **'''Presbytere''' - old church offices, another museum, including a New Orleans/Mardi Gras|New Orleans Mardi Gras display **'''St. Louis Cathedral''' **'''Pontalba Buildings''' - 4 story brick apartment buildings have specialty shops, restaurants, and a tourist information office on the ground floors *'''Moon Walk''' is a wooden boardwalk along the Mississippi River across Decatur Street from Jackson Square. The curious name comes from its dedication to former New Orleans mayor Moon Landrieu. *'''Old French Market''' while souvenirs for visitors have taken over a good bit of the space at this 250+ year old market, there are still vendors selling fresh produce as in days of old. On weekends a much larger number of vendors set up here, with handicrafts and flee-market type goods. *'''New Orleans Jazz Park''' Visitor's Center & Headquarters at 916 N. Peters; often has live music, lectures, and gives music history related walking tours. Many events are free; those that aren't are a bargain. http://www.nps.gov/jazz/ *'''Jean Lafitte National Park and Preserve''' 419 Decatur Street: Headquarters for National Park that includes several historic sights in and near New Orleans. Has a small museum and visitor's center. Show up by 9am to get a place on the informative free walking tour of the French Quarter. http://www.nps.gov/jela/ *'''Historic New Orleans Collection''' 533 Royal Street: Free museum with changing exhibits of local history. Also has a research center nearby on Charters Street. http://www.hnoc.org/ *'''Old U.S. Mint''' 400 Esplanade, by the French Market. Coins haven't been minted in New Orleans for decades, so the building is now a museum, with the minting process downstairs and the world's top exhibit on New Orleans jazz upstairs. *'''Old Ursuline Convent''' 1100 Chartres: Completed in 1752, open for tours *'''Pharmacy Museum''' 514 Chartres Street: See and learn about medical practices of the mid 19th century. http://www.pharmacymuseum.org/ ===House Museums === Some elegant old homes which are now museums: *'''1850s House''' 523 St. Ann in the lower Pontalba Building *'''Beauregard-Keyes House''' 1113 Chartres Street http://www.neworleansonline.com/tours-attractions/museums/beauregardkeyes.html *'''Hermann-Grima House''' 820 St. Louis Street. 1830s mansion http://www.hgghh.org/ *'''Gallier House''' 1132 Royal Street: Home of famous local 19th century architect *'''Madame John's Legacy''' 632 Dumaine: 18th century Creole home ==Do== Stroll the streets, look at the architecture, shops, and people. Hear music in the street. *'''Buggy Rides''': Horse drawn carriages have driven tourists around the Quarter since the gasoline rationing of the 1940s. Buggy drivers are known to give riders a running commentary consisting of a mix of tall tales and plugs for local businesses that pay them. Don't expect to learn any real New Orleans history; buggy driver stories are for entertainment value only. *'''Street entertainers''': perform for tips from tourists, and vary greatly in talent. There are excellent musicians who enjoy keeping up their chops out of doors. There are also hacks with little talent other than scamming money. Beware of the ''Got-yer-shoes-ers''; these are scammers who go up to tourists saying '''"I bet you I know where you got your shoes!"'''. If they succeed in getting the tourist to take the bet, the answer is "You got your shoes on your feet!" They usually have a large and threatening looking friend near by to make sure bets are paid. *'''Walking tours''': put on by the park service are free and you'll learn the real history of New Orleans, which is often as colorful as the tall stories. ==Buy== Art or high-end antiques on Royal Street. Tacky t-shirts and souvenirs on Bourbon Street. There are several good used book stores on Charters, Royal, elsewhere in the Quarter. * '''Louisiana Music Factory''' 210 Decatur specializes in local music, with a wide selection new and used CDs, plus vintage vinyl upstairs. Local musicians often play free sets here for promotion when they come out with a new record. The staff here usually know their stuff and can make good recommendations. http://www.louisianamusicfactory.com/ == Eat == ===Budget=== *'''Acme Oyster House''' 724 Iberville St: No ambiance, but good, cheap oysters and other southern delights. *'''Angeli''' on Decatur at Governor Nicholls, open all night *'''Cafe EnVie''' Espresso Bar & Cafe 1241 Decatur. Sandwiches, salads, omelettes, quiches. Wireless internet access. 7am - 11pm 232-6530 *'''Central Grocery''' 923 Decatur: Old Italian-American grocery sandwich shop, famous for their enormous muffuletta sandwiches (one is enough to feed two hungry people). *'''Clover Grill''' 900 Bourbon: Good eggs, burgers, and such 24 hours a day. Heavily (though not exclusively) gay clientele. http://www.clovergrill.com *'''Coop's Place''' 1109 Decatur (''near Ursulines''): You can get good Cajun food at a really good price here. http://www.coopsplace.net/ *'''Felix's Oyster House''' 739 Iberville: the Acme's traditional competition. *'''Jimani''' 141 Chartres: when you want a great roast beef sandwich at 2 in the morning *'''Mama Rosa's''' 616 N. Rampart: old style French Quarter Pizza. *'''Mona Lisa's''' 1212 Royal: Italian and Pizza *'''Port O' Call''' 838 Esplanade: If you crave a bronto burger and a baked potato, dock here. Warning: Bring big appetite! *'''Verti Marte''' 1201 Royal: Will deliver po-boys and similar cheap but yummy grub to your place in the Quarter. It's also a small neighborhood grocery with wine & beer. ==== Breakfast & Snacks ==== *'''Cafe du Monde''' Serves coffee and beignets, 24 hours a day, across Decatur from Jackson Square. A local landmark since the 19th century. http://www.cafedumonde.com/ *'''CC's''' Royal at St. Philip. The French Quarter branch of a small local chain. Great iced coffee drinks for hot days. *'''Croissant d'Or''' Ursuline Street French pastries and light breakfasts & lunch. *'''La Marquise''' 625 Chartres (''right up from Jackson Square''). More French pastries. ===Mid-range=== *'''Bacco''' 310 Charters, Tuscan, http://www.bacco.com *'''Bayona''': Inventive Mediterranean-ish food in pretty setting at 430 Dauphine. *'''Gumbo Shop''' 630 St. Peter: an institution for gumbos and similar traditional Louisiana dishes. http://www.gumboshop.com *'''Louisiana Pizza Kitchen''' - upscale custom pizza, by the French Market *'''Margaritaville Cafe''': Don’t waste away, Jimmy Buffett fans! On Decatur St. near the French Market; OK this place isn't so great, but it had to be mentioned. The great ironies of Margaritaville are this: 1) It is downriver on Decatur where, thankfully, fewer tourists venture even though the place is mostly designed for the tourist trade and 2) Some of the finest musicians in New Orleans that don't play stereotypical New Orleans music (dixieland jazz or R&B covers) play there and they DON'T play Jimmy Buffett covers. http://www.margaritavillecafe.com *'''Mr. B's Bistro''' 201 Royal http://www.mrbsbistro.com *'''Petunia's''' 817 St. Louis: French crepes, breakfast, lunch or dinner. http://www.petuniasrestaurant.com *'''Tujague's''' 823 Decatur (''just down from Jackson Square''): Pronounced "Two Jacks" Despite the weird spelling, it's been here since 1856 so they must be doing something right. The locals swear by it. http://www.tujaguesrestaurant.com ===Splurge=== *'''Antoine's''' 713 St. Louis: French Creole restaurant that's the oldest in the U.S., under continuous family ownership. *'''Arnaud's''' 813 Bienville: Another of the great old French Quarter classics. http://www.arnauds.com/ *'''Bella Luna''' 914 N. Peters: Grand view of the mighty Mississippi on Decatur St.; Not the *-est anything in town (which so many places claim) but its good. Southwest/Italian-ese. http://www.bellalunarestaurant.com *'''Brennan's''' 417 Royal: one of the famous local traditions; fine Creole cuisine, known for their gourmet breakfasts. Ask to sit in the courtyard. *'''Court of Two Sisters''' 613 Royal: A place for daily brunch (with a live jazz combo) and post-night out hangover cures; beautiful courtyard. *'''Galatoire's''' 209 Bourbon: Classic Creole on Bourbon Street. Despite being in the tourist strip of Bourbon Street, locals do eat here. For the true experience, wait in line for the downstairs dining room (reservations can be made for the upstairs room, but locals don't eat there), and refuse the menu when you're seated. Let your waiter know your tastes and let him feed you. *'''K-Paul's''' 416 Chartres Street: Chef Paul Prudhomme's place; this is the restaurant that taught New Orleans and the world not to sneer at the Cajun food of rural Southwest Louisiana. Does not take reservations. Not a major dress code kind of place. http://www.kpauls.com *'''Louis XVI''' 730 Bienvlle, in the St. Louis Hotel: Elegant French & Creole. http://www.louisxvi.com *'''NOLA''' 534 St. Louis: Stands for New Orleans, LA; Very good, run by chef Emeril Lagasse, not quite as pricey as his namesake restaurant in the Central Business District, and not as severe a dress code. *'''Peristyle''' 1041 Dumaine: Perfect for Friday lunches - very southern and sophisticated! == Drink == *'''The Bombay Club Restaurant and Martini Bistro''' 830 Conti Street: High end cocktails with a dress code. http://www.thebombayclub.com/ *'''Cafe Lafitte in Exile''' 901 Bourbon. Claims to be the USA's oldest gay bar; "in exile" since the original Lafitte's (see above) went straight some 50 + years ago. Everyone welcome. *'''Crescent City Brewhouse''' 527 Decatur. Microbrewery, also serves food. *'''The Dungeon''' 734 Toulouse: Dark gothic bar opens at midnight. http://www.originaldungeon.com/ *'''Johnny White's''': Down home bar. There are two, one on Bourbon Street and the other on St. Peter near Bourbon. The first has a restaurant, the second just booze. Open 24/7. *'''Kerry Irish Pub''' 331 Decatur *'''Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop''' Bourbon & St. Philip: Piano bar towards the end of the touristy part of Bourbon Street. Supposedly once the in-town headquarters of pirate & smuggler Jean Laffitte, many colorful stories are told about this location. They pour great Hurricanes. *'''Le Roundup''' St. Louis between Bourbon and Dauphine. The ultimate dive bar, home to transsexuals, hookers, transsexual hookers, cowboys, and Quarter eccentrics. *'''Molly's at the Market''' a great Irish/Quarterpunk bar on lower Decatur Street, long a favorite of bohemian locals *'''Napoleon House''' Chartres & St. Louis: The place to go if you like the thought of good drinks in a 200+ year old building whose owners are proud that the interior hasn't been repainted since World War I, with classical music playing over the sound system. Napoleon never made it here, as he died before the local plan to rescue him from exile and start his empire afresh in Louisiana could be carried out. Napoleon House also serves good sandwiches and a limited food menu, with service at a speed somewhere between leisurely and glacial-- don't stop here if you're in a hurry to be somewhere else. *'''O’Flahertys''' Toulouse Street back from Decatur: Irish pub that often has live Irish music. Serves cider plus good Euro/English/Irish beers & pub grub. Some say the place is haunted, but ya never know. *'''Oz''' 800 Bourbon. Loud hip gay disco. *'''Pat O'Brien's''' 718 St. Peter (''between Bourbon and Royal''): Famous for strong Hurricanes, Mint Juleps, TNTs, Purple People Eaters; Popular tourist hangout for a reason; been trendy for generations, has impressive fire/water fountain and patio. == Live Music == *'''Bourbon Street''' -- upper Bourbon has been given over to catering to hard drinking out of towners, and this part of the street has a number of music venues (not named here) whose owners make their money off them, with loud mediocre bands hired cheaply. None the less, despite what some say it is still possible to find New Orleans jazz on Bourbon Street. **'''Jazz Parlor Storyville''' 125 Bourbon 410-1000 **'''Maison Bourbon''' at 641 Bourbon sometimes does (though as often doesn't) have decent bands, as many good local dixieland players for the moment lacking a better gig often wind up here. As the doors are open to the street, you can listen a bit from outside, judge for yourself whether they have a band you'd enjoy on a given day, and walk on by or go on in as appropriate. http://expage.com/page/maisonbourbon **'''Fritzels''' at 733 Bourbon, 561-0432, has good house bands in the evenings, and is often the venue for out of town and out of country musicians versed in the New Orleans style to play. *'''Donna's Bar & Grill''' 800 N. Rampart (''at the corner of St. Ann, on the edge of the Quarter''): Donna's is a center of the modern New Orleans Brass Band style that combines the old jazz with such influences as funk and hip hop, producing a style that's up to date while still distinctively and uniquely New Orleans. Donna's attracts a mixed clientele of downtown New Orleanians, college students, and in-the-know visitors. http://www.donnasbarandgrill.com/ *'''Funky Butt''' Excellent new jazz/blues venue in a neighborhood to be careful in at the edge of the Quarter. http://www.funkybutt.com/ *'''House of Blues''' 225 Decatur. The New Orleans branch of the corporate chain presents national talent and a gospel brunch on Sundays. http://www.hob.com/venues/clubvenues/neworleans/ *'''Margaritaville''' 1104 Decatur - see mention above at Eat *'''New Orleans Jazz Park''' 916 N. Peters; often has free live music Weekend afternoons and sometimes other times; http://www.nps.gov/jazz/ *'''O'Flahertys''' Toulouse Street back from Decatur. New Orleans' top place for Irish music. Danny O'Flaherty leads the fun house band, alternating with local and visiting groups playing the music of the Emerald Isle. *'''Preservation Hall''' 726 St. Peter (''between Bourbon & Royal''): Traditional Dixie jazz that you'll pay $40 a concert anywhere else. Here for only $8. Talk about atmosphere! Listen to real jazz and nothing else (no booze, no bathrooms). You'll have to stand in line, and it's cheap. Music starts at 8pm and runs until midnight. The band plays several 30 minute sets and your ticket is valid all night. http://www.preservationhall.com *'''Palm Court Cafe''' Those who prefer their old style New Orleans jazz in a somewhat more upscale atmosphere where dinner and drinks are served should be sure to visit this place at 1204 Decatur street in the lower Quarter. Some of the same musicians who play Preservation Hall play here on other nights, along with other top local classic style jazz greats. The owner's husband runs the Jazzology record company, featuring the world's largest independent label catalogue of trad jazz, so you can pick up cds by your favorites from Bunk Johnson to current Dixielanders while you're here. http://www.palmcourtcafe.com *'''Tipitinas''' The older more famous one is uptown, but the French Quarter branch presents fine music as well ==Sleep== Places within the French Quarter or just outside of it on Canal Street are the most centrally located, and also cost more than rooms in other parts of town. Those wishing a fuller immersion in the city may wish to go ahead and pay extra for a location from which they can find many days of things to do with no need of a car or transit. A few of the better hotels with good locations in the Quarter: *'''Hotel Maison de Ville and Audubon Cottages''' Is one of the most historic hotels in the Quarter, everyone from Tennessee Williams to Audobon has spent time there. For the best deals try Summer and Winter -- especially mid-week. The hotel's website offers some great deals that you can't find on any of the major travel sites. 727 Rue Toulouse New Orleans, LA 70130 (''just off of Royal Street, and Jackson Square'') T: 504.561.5858 http://www.hotelmaisondeville.com *'''Bourbon Orleans''' 717 Orleans off Bourbon *'''Corn Stalk Fence Hotel''' 915 Royal *'''Holiday Inn Chateau Le Moyne New Orleans Hotel''' 301 Rue Dauphine. (504) 581-1303. An historical hotel one block from Bourbon Street. http://hineworleans-chateaulemoyne.felcor.com/ *'''Holiday Inn New Orleans Hotel French Quarter''' 124 Royal Street, just of Canal Street. (504) 529-7211. http://hineworleans-frenchquarter.felcor.com/ *'''Bourbon Orleans - A Wyndham Historic New Orleans Hotel''' 717 Orleans St. (504) 523-2222. Built in 1817 in the heart of the French Quarter. http://bourbon.wyndham-hotels.com/ *'''Monteleone''' 214 Royal, in an elegant early-20th century sky-scraper (the only one within the confines of the Quarter itself, just constructed just before large new constructions were prohibited here) has long been one of the top upscale Quarter hotels. Other places include: * '''Biscuit Palace''' 730 Dumaine (''between Bourbon and Royal streets'') gay-friendly B&B in the center of the Quarter. 525-9949 http://www.biscuit-palace.com/ == Get out == Walk across Canal Street and you're in the New Orleans/Central Business District|Central Business District. Take the red Canal Streetcar line to the attractions of New Orleans/Mid-City|Mid-City, or the green St. Charles Streetcar line to New Orleans/Uptown|Uptown and New Orleans/Carrollton|Carrollton. The ferry at the foot of Canal Street (free for pedestrians, $1 for cars) will take you across the Mississippi to the New Orleans/Algiers|Algiers neighborhood, and give you a scenic budget mini-cruise of the River in the process. Just "below" (down river) from the French Quarter is the New Orleans/Faubourg Marigny|Faubourg Marigny neighborhood, across Esplanade Avenue, with hip music joints and restaurants. Inland or "back" (away from the Mississippi River) from the Quarter is the New Orleans/Treme|Treme neighborhood. ==External links== WikiPedia:French Quarter First page | Prev | Next | Last page |

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