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Siem ReapSiem ReapThe town of '''Siem Reap''', in northern Cambodia, is the primary access point for the Angkor Archaeological Park. Image:Siem reap waterfront2.jpg|thumb|240px|Along the Siem Reap River ==Understand== Siem Reap, literally "Siam Defeated", commemorates a Khmer victory over the neighboring kingdom of Thailand. These days, however, the only rampaging hordes are the tourists heading to Angkor and this once quaint village has become the largest boomtown and construction site in Cambodia. While it has no attractions of its own (at least when compared to Angkor), it's still quite laid-back and all in all a pleasant place to stay while touring the temples. ==Get in== ===By plane=== '''Siem Reap International Airport''' ('''REP''') has frequent flights from the capital city of Phnom Penh as well as major South-East Asian cities such as Bangkok, Singapore and Saigon. There are daily flights to/from Vientiane and Laos, though the condition of the aged Lao Aviation fleet leaves much to be desired. The airport is less than 15 minutes by car from the center of town. Visas on arrival are available for $20 (payable in US dollars) and a single color photo. Note that the international departure tax is a steep $25. ===By land=== Cambodian highways have improved considerably in the last few years (although there is still plenty of room for improvement) and what were once epic adventures are now merely long, dusty and bumpy rides. For all routes you have the basic options of chartering a '''Toyota Camry taxi''', sharing a ride on a '''pickup truck''' or taking the '''bus'''. ====From Bangkok==== The most popular overland route is from Bangkok via the border at Aranyaprathet/Poipet. The luxury option is to take a public bus from Bangkok's Northern Bus terminal (Mochit) to Aranyaprathet (164 baht in first class), hop on a tuk-tuk to the border (50-60 baht), cross on foot and then grab a taxi for 3 hours on a bumpy dirt road to Siem Reap ($25 for the whole car); the entire trip will take you less than 8 hours on a good day. If $25 is too much, you can hop on the back of a pick-up truck for a fraction of the price, but this will be more uncomfortable, take longer and probably requires a change at Sisophon. Alternatively, you can join the backpacking masses and pay a couple of hundred baht for an uncomfortable bus ride directly from Bangkok/Khao San Road|Khao San Road all the way to Siem Reap; any travel agent in Bangkok will be happy to sell you a ticket. Buses leave Koh San Road around 8am and arrive in Siem Reap between 5pm and 3am, depending on road conditions. For the return trip, expect to pay around $11. Another option may be to travel by train from Bangkok to Aranyaprathet and taking a tuk-tuk to Poipet from there; however, there are just two services daily and they're both third-class only. Tickets can be bought at Hualamphong Station in Bangkok. Whichever route you take, beware of '''scams, touts and pickpockets''' at the Poipet border crossing. Visas on arrival cost 1000 baht, require one color picture, and you do not need anybody's assistance to complete the process. ====From Phnom Penh==== Buses to/ from Phnom Penh go several times a day (about 6 US$)and leave at the bus station east of town. The trip will take 5-6 hours depending on the road conditions. ===By boat=== '''Speedboats''' also make the journey from Phnom Penh across the '''Tonle Sap''' lake, charging a steep foreigner price of $25 for the privilege. There are also services between Siem Reap and Battambang ($12 in 2003). A word of caution: this can be a fantastic trip which gives travellers the opportunity to view life on the lake, floating houses, fishermen going about their work and get a sun tan as you will probably have to sit on the roof of the boat. However if you travel on a windy day and you have not kept waterproofs and sunscreen out of you luggage you are in trouble. The journey takes several hours and without waterproofs and sunscreen you will become incredibly cold and will be burned by the sun at the same time. As the boat is generally packed with travellers, those on the roof will have to stay up there, and once your bags are in the hold, they stay there. Be prepared for the trip and you will love every minute. ==Get around== Most of the sights in Siem Reap can be seen on foot. For the foot-sore and sun-weary, you will have plenty of offers from locals on motorbikes, simply agree to a price and hop on the back. Anywhere in town should cost around $1. Another excellent way to see Siem Reap is by bicycle. Most guesthouses have bicycles, usually free, or at most $2 per day. It is also a good way to see Angkor Wat, but leave early to avoid the mid-day heat. Alternatively, you can rent a motorbike's services for a full day for $6 or so. Siem Reap province has recently banned foreigners from driving their own motorbikes, but the rule is only selectively enforced. However, given Khmer driving habits and the price of labor in these parts, whether you really want to drive on your own even if you could is another question. ==See== The reason most people come to Siem Reap is the Angkor Archaeological Park, thoroughly covered on its own page. ==Do== ==Buy== A distant second as an attraction is the '''Psar Chas''' (Old Market) to the south of town, selling a reasonably attractive collection of artifacts and tourist junk. Please don't buy anything purporting to be antiques; it probably isn't, but it's stolen if it is. ==Eat== * '''Samapheap''' is a large and popular restaurant pleasantly located on the eastern riverbank a short hop down from Route 6, catering to both Khmers and tour groups. The menu is extensive, service is quick, prices are reasonable (most mains $2-5) and the food is good. * '''Chiang Mai''' and '''Chivat Thai 2''' on Wat Bo Rd offer basic Thai fare. Lunch sets start at $1.50, dinner costs a bit more. * '''The Markets''' - If you get tired of paying US$ 3 and up for a lunch/dinner you may try one of the markets. You can get a whole meal for US$ 1 and below there. ==Drink== * Most of Siem Reap's watering holes are concentrated in a few lanes north of Psar Chas (the old market). Dependable standbys include '''Angkor What?''' and '''Dead Fish'''. Drinks usually $2 and up, although most if not all bars have happy hours before 8 PM. * The '''[http://www.fcccambodia.com/angkor/ FCC Angkor]''' (west river bank next to post office), opened in October 2002, is far and away Siem Reap's hippest place for a bite and a drink. A branch of the legendary Phnom Penh Foreign Correspondents' Club, the FCC offers food (~$5) and drink (~$3) in a marvelous blend of modern style and colonial architecture... if at a fairly steep price, at least by Cambodian standards. ==Sleep== Accommodations range from towering airconditioned hotels by the airport (mostly for get-in-get-out all-inclusive tours) to local rooms-for-rent and a range of modest guesthouses in town, particular on and around '''Wat Bo''' road. If you arrive with a tour bus or van you will be taken to a "suggested" guesthouse. Usually these are not too bad and you'll probably be too tired to argue. If you arrive by plane, you may wish to contact a guest house in advance. They will then usually arrange for free transportation to their place. Otherwise just take a motorbike (US$ 1) or a taxi (US$ 2) to town. If you don't know any place to go to, they will ask for your budget and will then 'suggest' one. ===Budget=== * '''Two Dragons Guesthouse'''. Wat Bo, [http://www.talesofasia.com/cambodia-twodragons.htm]. Brand-new guesthouse run by Gordon of [http://www.talesofasia.com Tales of Asia] fame. A/C, hot water, cable TV, and the self-proclaimed cleanest rooms in Cambodia, from $7. * '''Rosy Guesthouse'''. Slar Kram Village, tel. 012 916 930, 012 951 692. Rooms with fans, satellite TV and shower with hot water inside. Rates are US$ 5. or (855) * '''Home Sweet Home Guesthouse'''. No. 0111 Wat Bo, tel. 063 760 279, [http://www.catgen.com/sweethome/]. Rooms with fans and shower inside are US$ 8, shower outside are US$ 5. ===Mid-range=== * '''[http://www.momsguesthouse.com/ Mom's Guesthouse]''' (#0099, Phom Wat Bo) is one of the longer-running guesthouses in Siem Reap, now in a new if somewhat characterless building. Mom will be happy to make all sorts of travel and transport arrangements. Rates $15/20/30 for aircon singles/doubles/triples with breakfast, hot water and airport transfers included. ==Contact== '''Internet cafes''' abound in Siem Reap, the standard price being $1 per hour. Connections are usually painfully slow. * '''[http://www.talesofasia.com/cambodia-ecafe.htm E-Cafe]''', on Sivatha St north of Psar Chas, is a cut above the rest in connection and service quality, as well as price at $1.50 an hour. ==Get out== * If you haven't seen enough temples yet, the commanding hilltop ruins of Preah Vihear next to the Thai border might be worth a trip. ==External links== * [http://www.talesofasia.com/cambodia-overland.htm Tales of Asia: Cambodia Overland], an excellent and up-to-date page chock full of information for getting to and from Siem Reap by land de:Siem Reap First page | Prev | Next | Last page |
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