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Singapore/Central Business District
Singapore/Central Business DistrictImage:CBD_Merlion_Skyline.JPG|thumb|240px|The Merlion and the Central Business District skyline
The '''Central Business District''' (near-universally abbreviated '''CBD''') is the heart of Singapore. Centered on the mouth of the '''Singapore River''', the south side of the river is a cluster of skyscrapers home to Singapore's many financial institutions, while the north side is filled with British colonial buildings.
Chinatown and Tanjong Pagar, which blend into the southwestern side of the CBD, are covered in the separate Singapore/Chinatown|Chinatown article.
==Get in==
The CBD lies between the MRT stations of '''Tanjong Pagar''' and '''City Hall''' on the East-West Line, and between '''Orchard''' and '''Marina Bay''' on the North-South Line.
Singapore's '''Electronic Road Pricing''' ('''ERP''') system charges toll for entry to the CBD during peak hours and applies also to taxis, who will pass the buck to you.
==Get around==
'''Cruises on the Singapore River''' [http://www.rivercruise.com.sg/] are popular way to see the heart of the city. Stations are scattered on both banks of the river and no reservations are needed. Prices start for S$3 for a simple ride from point A to point B.
==See==
The bulk of Singapore's historical attractions are packed into the CBD, and the best place to start your tour is at the mouth of the Singapore River.
===Monuments===
*'''Merlion'''. Merlion Park (''Raffles Place MRT exit H, off Fullerton Rd''). Singapore's official symbol spouts water daily on the south bank of the mouth of the Singapore river. Designed by the Singapore Tourism Board in 1970, many a commentator has pondered on the inherent contradictions of a creature that is half-cat, half-fish — much like Singapore itself.
*'''Cavenagh Bridge'''. Next to Fullerton Hotel. Singapore's oldest bridge and its only suspension bridge, constructed in 1869. Now a pedestrian walkway across the mouth of the Singapore River; note the original sign forbidding cattle to cross.
*'''Raffles Statue'''. 1 Empress Place (''next to Asian Civilisations Museum''). This statue of Stamford Raffles, the founder of Singapore, is the second only to the Merlion as most popular place in Singapore to take a picture of yourself. Having the skyscrapers and the shophouses of Boat Quay in the background helps to explain why!
===Museums===
* '''Asian Civilisations Museum at Empress Place'''. 1 Empress Place, tel. +66 63327798, [http://www.nhb.gov.sg/ACM/acm.shtml]. One of Singapore's newest, largest and best-presented museums. As the name hints, all of Asia is covered in the scope, although naturally there is an emphasis on the cultures near and in Singapore. Open 9 AM to 7 PM daily. Admission $5, free Friday evenings 6-9 PM.
* '''Battle Box'''. Fort Canning Park. The former HQ of the British army during World War 2, now turned into an air-conditioned museum complete with animatronic figures retelling the events of the days before surrender. Adults S$8, open 10am-6pm Tue-Sun. Nearest MRT station Dhoby Ghaut, but it's a steamy hike up the hill.
*'''Singapore History Museum'''. [http://www.museum.org.sg/shm/shm.html]. Closed for renovations until 2006.
==Do==
*'''Esplanade - Theatres on the Bay'''. 1 Esplanade Drive (''City Hall MRT''), [http://www.esplanade.com.sg/]. Singapore's attempt at duplicating Sydney's Opera House, except that the two-lobed spiky Singaporean version bears a striking resemblance to notorious tropical fruit durian. Opera, dance, classical concerts and similar high-brow entertainment is offered daily.
==Buy==
'''Orchard Road''' and neighboring '''Scotts Road''' form Singapore's premier shopping district. While most malls offer attractive products at costly prices, there are one or two that still cater to the average Singaporean wallets. MRT stations Orchard to Dhoby Ghaut are all on Orchard Rd. A selection of malls, from west (Orchard MRT) to east (Dhoby Ghaut MRT):
* '''Far East Plaza''', 14 Scotts Road. This mall is a bargain hunter paradise, you can find unique clothes and accessories at the cheapest price.
* '''Wheelock Place''', 501 Orchard Road (''Orchard MRT''). Notable primarily for the giant '''Borders''' bookstore on the ground level, but there's also a Marks & Spencer department store buried in the basement.
* '''CK Tangs''', 320 Orchard Road (''Orchard MRT''), [http://www.tangs.com/]. Singapore's very own old-school department store.
* '''Lucky Plaza''', 304 Orchard Road, [http://www.luckyplaza.com.sg/]. Notorious den of dubious electronics for tourists, best avoided.
* '''Ngee Ann City'''/'''Takashimaya Shopping Centre''', 391 Orchard Road, [http://www.takashimaya-sin.com/]. Currently in the top slot, at least in terms of sheer size. Expensive branded goods on the first floors, more affordable shopping in the two basement floors. Also features '''Kinokuniya''', Singapore's largest bookstore, on the 3rd floor.
* '''Paragon''', 290 Orchard Rd (''opp Takashimaya''). Singapore's more expensive mall, packed with Prada, Gucci and other expensive brands.
* '''The Heeren''', 260 Orchard Rd, [http://www.heeren.com.sg/]. Trendy youth clothing plus Singapore's largest music store, a three-story '''HMV''' outlet.
* '''Plaza Singapura''', 68 Orchard Road (''Dhoby Ghaut MRT''). Singapore's oldest air-conditioned shopping mall, located just above the MRT interchange and recently given a thorough facelift. Huge '''Carrefour''' multilevel hypermarket, numerous eating options and a large cinema complex on the top floors.
Other stores and malls of interest include:
* '''Funan The IT Mall'''. 109 North Bridge Road (''City Hall MRT''), [http://www.funan.com.sg/]. One of the best places to buy electronics in Singapore, stores here are strictly vetted and the risk of getting ripped off is low.
* '''Peninsula Plaza'''. 111 North Bridge Road (''City Hall MRT''). Older mall notable primary for its concentration of specialist camera stores, the largest of which is '''Cathay Photo''' [http://www.cathayphoto.com.sg/].
* '''Suntec City'''. [http://www.sunteccity.com.sg/]. At the northeastern edge of the CBD is Singapore's largest shopping mall, featuring the '''Fountain of Wealth''', reputedly the world's largest fountain. Take the MRT to City Hall and then follow the signs in the underground '''CityLink''' mall; or save yourself some walking and take a taxi.
==Eat==
The CBD is the best place in Singapore to sample not just Singaporean food, but food from all over the planet. Prices tend to be slightly inflated by Singaporean standards, so avoid any place that need to use touts to get customers.
===Budget===
====Hawker centres and coffeeshops====
* '''Killiney Kopitiam'''. 67 Killiney Rd (''Somerset MRT''). A Singaporean legend, this ordinary-looking coffeeshop continues to pack in the crowds for its famous ''kaya'' toast (a steal at $0.80 per slice), with the ''kaya'' itself also sold at $3/5 for a small/large jar. For lunch or dinner, try the more substantial chicken curry with grilled French bread ($4.50).
* '''Lau Pa Sat'''. 18 Raffles Quay (''near Raffles Place MRT''). A nicely done up hawker centre, but unfortunately suffering from a lack of hawkers caused overly high rents.
* '''Maxwell Centre'''. 2 Murray Street (''on Maxwell Rd''). Between Chinatown and the CBD, this is probably the best choice for central location and real hawker food.
* '''Newton Circus'''. Near Newton MRT. Known for its seafood but is also one the few places in Singapore where touts and overcharging can be a nuisance. Still, the hawker center has always had a special spot in the hearts of Singaporeans, especially those in the heartlands. Newton Circus is located just at the fringe of the CBD, surrounded by landed property, just a less than 5-minute bus ride from the trendy Orchard Road and beside a main road that is just off the Pan Island Expressway (PIE).
** Scheduled for renovation in 2004
* '''Yong Bak Kut Teh'''. 233 River Valley Rd (''corner of Mohamed Sultan''). Well located for late-night snacks, this coffeeshop serves up tasty Kuala Lumpur|KL-style dark pork rib soup (''bak kut teh''). $5.30 for a bowl with rice and ''you char kway'' fritters.
====Food courts and fast food====
* Almost every shopping mall has its own food court, but particularly good ones for comfort and variety are in the basement of '''Takashimaya''' (Orchard Rd.) and the otherwise rather nondescript '''Scotts Shopping Centre''' on Scotts Rd.
** '''Cool Passion'''. 391 Orchard Road #B2F-11 (''in Takashimaya''). A small shop serving up all sorts of shakes, slurpees and frozen yogurts, but the most popular item by far is the milky and sweet Taiwanese-style bubble tea with gummy tapioca pearls at the bottom ($2.50).
* '''Komala's'''. Peninsula Plaza B1F, North Bridge Rd, [http://www.komalasweb.com/]. MdDonalds-style fast food, only they serve vegetarian Indian food on a banana leaf instead of burgers and fries. Worth a visit for the cognitive dissonance and good food, with massive meal sets under $5.
===Mid-range===
* '''Bao Food of Vietnam''' 67 Beach Road #01-02 (''opp Shaw Tower''), tel: 6333 0092, [http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bao_restaurant]. One of the most authentic Vietnamese restaurants in Singapore, specialising in very light Hue-style cuisine. Popular dishes such as Pho, Bun Bo Hue, Cha Gio Cua, Com Tam, Banh Mi Thit Nguoi, Cafe va Che. Prices are very reasonable between $6.50 to $12.
* '''Din Tai Fung'''. Paragon B1F, Orchard Rd. The Singapore branch of a Taiwanese chain, serves some of the best ''xiao long bao'' ($8.50 per platter) this side of Shanghai#Eat|Shanghai. Expect to queue near mealtimes, but it's a big place and the queue moves fast. Open 10 AM to 10 PM daily.
* '''Epicurious'''. 60 Robertson Quay #01-02, tel. +66 67347720. This lovably quirky cafe-delicatessen is justly renowned for its gourmet breakfasts, featuring not only the usual pancakes and toasts but more offbeat options too. Try the Green Eggs and Ham, with pesto scrambled eggs and prosciutto ($12), and wash it down with freshly squeezed juice ($5). Breakfast until 1 PM ''on weekends only'', lunch and dinner served daily.
* '''Ichibantei'''. 60 Robertson Quay #01-13, [http://www.ichibantei.com.sg/index.htm]. Possibly the best of Singapore's many ''ramen'' restaurants, this branch of an Osakan restaurant serves up generous portions of authentic Japanese noodles at $8.80 and up. Open 11:30 AM to 11 PM daily.
* '''Shimbashi Soba'''. B1F-41 Paragon, 290 Orchard Road. The best Japanese ''soba'' noodles you'll find in Singapore, made by hand in the adjoining glass-walled workshop. They make you pay for them though: a plate of noodles will cost you $10.50 and up. Set meals at lunchtime are better value for $15 or so.
* '''Sushitei'''. 2F Ngee Ann City (''behind taxi stand''), 391 Orchard Road #02-13 and other outlets, [http://www.sushitei.com.sg/]. A popular chain of conveyor belt sushi joints, with the Takashimaya outlet tops for quality and popularity. You pay a slight premium here for the fresh ingredients, but at $2 and up per plate it's still a steal.
===Splurge===
Image:BoatQuay_Shophouses.JPG|thumb|240px|Skyscrapers and shophouses on Boat Quay
The best places for a splurge with a view in the evening are '''Boat Quay''' and '''Clarke Quay''', which have many riverside restaurants offering ''al fresco'' dining.
* '''IndoChine Waterfront'''. Tel. 6339-1720, [http://www.indochine.com.sg/]. Directly opposite Boat Quay on a terrace outside the Asian Civilisations Museum, IndoChine's newest branch offers excellent modern Vietnamese/Lao/Khmer food and gorgeous views of the river at only moderately high prices (S$20-30 mains). Great place for a date, reservations highly advisable.
* '''Quayside Seafood Grill'''. Past Hooters on Clarke Quay. Tel. 6338 0138. One of the better places for Singaporean food on the Quays, open for dinner only.
* '''Aburiya'''. 60 Robertson Quay, #01-03 The Quayside, tel. 6735 4862. Japanese-Korean ''yakiniku'' grilled meat joint, served with a wide range of side dishes. Expensive (for Singapore), but very tasty for carnivores and the $70 set menus for two are enough to stuff three.
For better food but less of a view, '''Orchard Road''' is brimming with fiercely competitive restaurants.
* '''Crystal Jade''' is a popular range of midrange Chinese restaurants with outlets in nearly every shopping mall in Singapore, including Suntec City, Shaw House and Paragon.
** '''Crystal Jade Palace''' (Ngee Ann City #04-19, 391 Orchard Rd; tel. 6735-2388) is the flagship of the chain, which serves authentic Cantonese food. Dinner here is fairly expensive (dishes $10-40 each), but the set lunch for two is good value at $50. Reservations recommended.
* '''Mezza9''' (Grand Hyatt 2F, 10-12 Scotts Rd; tel. 6730 7189) is famous for their '''Sunday Munch''', arguably the best of Singapore's many extravagant hotel brunches. Worth a splurge at $88 per person, including free-flow champagne. 11 AM to 3 PM on Sundays only, reservations essential.
The former Convent of the Holy Infant Jesus, '''[http://www.chijmes.com.sg/ CHIJMES]''' (30 Victoria St) is an atmospheric assemblage of high-end food & beverage outlets near the Raffles Hotel. Unusually in early-closing Singapore, many of the restaurants here are open as late as 1 or 2 AM.
* '''Viet Lang''' (#01-26/27, tel. 6337 3379) is among the best Vietnamese restaurants in Singapore, and you can even wash down your ''pho'' and ''cha gio'' with some imported 333 beer. Fairly expensive (as all restaurants here), with mains around $20 each.
==Drink==
Singapore's nightlife is almost entirely concentrated within the CBD. The main party zones are '''Boat Quay''' on the south of the river next to the financial district (MRT Raffles Place, exit G); '''[http://www.clarkequay.com.sg/ Clarke Quay]''' on the north bank a few blocks inland (MRT Clarke Quay); and '''Mohamed Sultan Rd''' a few more blocks away on the north side. All three are within crawling distance of each other.
On Orchard Road itself, '''[http://www.emerald-hill.com/default.asp Emerald Hill]''' opposite Somerset MRT is a beautifully restored cluster of shophouse-cum-bars hidden away in an alley.
===Bars===
* '''Bar 84''', Gallery Hotel 2F, 76 Robertson Quay. Better known by locals as the '''Magic Bar''', as you can watch Tokyo/Ginza|Ginza-trained manager-bartender-magician Hashi-san dazzle and astonish his guests nightly except Sunday. Dim lighting, smooth jazz, and stylish decoration makes this the perfect place of a quiet drink — although beware that, in addition to the $10 cover and $15 drinks, any props used for your amusement will also magically find their way onto your bill.
* '''Eski Bar''', 46 Circular Rd (''behind Boat Quay''), [http://www.eskibar.com/]. If the tropical heat starts to get to you, pop into the coolest place in town — a steady -6°C, to be precise, although the chill-out area is a comparatively toasty 18°C. Try the grapefruity Eski Blue or coconut sweet Sleeping Polar Bear (S$15 each). Open 5 PM to 1 AM (or later) daily.
* '''Long Bar''', Raffles Hotel, 1 Beach Rd, [http://www.raffleshotel.com/longbar.html]. The birthplace of the '''Singapore Sling''', a syrupy sweet pink concoction of pineapple juice, gin, cherry liquor and many mysterious ingredients. The two-floor bar is large and a bit of a tourist trap, but drinking a Sling (a steep S$16) at the beautifully decorated wood-paneled bar and throwing the accompanying peanut shells on the floor should be on every visitor's agenda.
* '''Harry's Bar''', 28 Boat Quay, [http://www.harrys-bar.com.sg/harrysbar.htm]. The favorite watering hole of Nick Leeson, the "Rogue Trader" who brought down Barings Bank and was once arrested here for indecent exposure. Try the Bank Breaker, an unlikely mix of whisky and Midori. Live music most nights.
* '''Equinox''', Raffles City Complex 68-72F, Stamford Rd, [http://www.rafflescityhotels.com/swissotel/restaurants/res_equinox.html]. The five bars and restaurants here offer the best nighttime views of the city, but prices are correspondingly expensive (S$15 and up for a drink). For a cigar and live jazz, head to '''CitySpace''' (floor 70), while '''New Asia Bar+Grill''' is a more casual place for a drink. Entry is through the Swissotel entrance on Stamford Rd.
* '''Nihonshu''', 33 Mohamed Sultan Road, tel. +66 68870282. This sleek yet understated bar is devoted to the Japanese rice wine ''sake'', with over 100 labels on offer — most only by the bottle, but there is fair range to sample by the glass or decanter as well ($6-15) and a wide range of Japanese nibbles ($4-10) to go along with them. Open 6 PM-midnight or later daily except Sunday.
* '''Number 5''', 5 Emerald Hill, [http://www.emeraldhillgroup.com/no5.htm]. Friendly bar housed in a 1910 Peranakan shophouse. Downstairs is loud, upstairs is quieter with a pool table. The cocktails are good, but for a fiery kick try their '''Chili Vodka''' or its industrial-strength big brother, '''Chili Padi Vodka'''.
===Nightclubs===
At all clubs listed below, arrive early (or late) because otherwise you may be stuck in line for a while. ID is theoretically required but rarely checked.
* '''Zouk'''. 17 Jiak Kim St, [http://www.zoukclub.com.sg]. Singapore's best-known nightclub and in fact a complex of 4 spaces: '''Zouk''' itself for harder dance music, '''Velvet Underground''' for loungier stuff, '''Phuture''' for experimental edge and the outside '''Wine Bar''' for chilling out. A full-entry ticket will set you back a rather pricey S$35, but two drinks are included and the place is happening especially when foreign DJs are in town — which is more often than not!
* '''Liquid Room'''. Gallery Hotel 1F, 76 Robertson Quay, [http://www.liquidroom.com.sg]. A small, dark club catering primarily to fans of harder dance music. There is no cover charge and the place is often jam-packed on weekends.
* '''Dbl O'''. Mohamed Sultan Rd. One of Singapore's most popular clubs, at least in part because there's no cover charge and once you get in house pours are only S$3 a glass. Forking out S$15 for cover will let you skip the queue and get into '''Bar O''' downstairs, which follows the same pricing policy.
* '''Jazz@Southbridge'''. 82B Boat Quay, tel. 6327 4671, [http://www.southbridgejazz.com.sg/]. Small and intimate, generally judged the best of Singapore's (few) jazz joints. Two-drink minimum on weekends, open daily except Monday.
==Sleep==
===Mid-range===
Most of the CBD's midrange accommodation consists of older hotels in varying states of decay, but there are a few welcome exceptions.
* '''Copthorne King's''', 403 Havelock Road, tel. +65 6733 0011, [http://www.copthornekings.com.sg/]. The former King's Hotel, given a thorough renovation when taken over by the Copthorne group and now looks (almost) brand new. The primary downside is the somewhat inconvenient location near the west end of the river, although Mohammed Sultan is within striking distance. Weekend rates from S$110+++.
* '''The Elizabeth''', 24 Mount Elizabeth, tel. +65 6738 1188, [http://www.theelizabeth.com.sg/]. This somewhat tired tourist hotel doesn't have much of the promised "Old World Grandeur", but the location a short stroll off Orchard is good for the price and there's a waterfall to watch as you munch on the insipid breakfast buffet. Internet rates from S$115 nett.
* '''Gallery Hotel''', 76 Robertson Quay, tel. +65 6849 8686, [http://www.galleryhotel.com.sg/]. If you've ever wanted to spend the night in an IKEA showroom, this self-proclaimed Highly Individual Property is the place for you. No paintings hanging on the wall here, the name refers to the hotel's own style, all steel, glass, austere modern furniture and breakage-prone fancy electronics. Well located for visits to the 4 bars/clubs on premises and nightspots on Mohammed Sultan, but you'll be taking a taxi anywhere else. Bonus points for free Internet and Singapore's funkiest pool/human aquarium. Rooms from S$138.
===Splurge===
The CBD has a plethora of high-end accommodation, most of it scattered around Orchard Road. There are two major styles to choose from: colonial hotels, harking back to the turn of the century, and modern hotels, firmly in the present.
====Colonial====
* '''Raffles Hotel'''. 1 Beach Rd, tel. 6337 1886, [http://www.raffleshotel.com/]. A Singaporean icon offering 5-star luxury in an colonial style, known as the birthplace of the Singapore Sling and the final stand of Singapore's last tiger, shot in the Billiards Room. But is this worth S$600 and up to you?
* '''Fullerton Hotel'''. [http://www.fullertonhotel.com]. In the magnificent refurbished former Central Post Office, this is Raffles' closest competitor (in price as well) with an excellent central seaside location.
* '''Goodwood Park Hotel'''. 22 Scotts Rd, [http://www.goodwoodparkhotel.com.sg/]. The place to stay if you want the Raffles experience without the crowds (and with a slightly less breathtaking price tag). Supremely lovely garden pool. Be sure to opt for the older main building, not the modern annex.
====Modern====
* '''Conrad Centennial'''. 2 Temasek Blvd, tel. 6334 8888, [http://www.conradhotels.com/en/ch/hotels/index.jhtml?ctyhocn=SINCICI]. New and impeccably tasteful hotel, located next Suntec City but a bit far from the MRT. Good value for a 5-star though, as discounted rates can go below S$200.
* '''Marriott Hotel'''. 320 Orchard Rd, [http://marriott.com/property/propertyPage/SINDT&corporateCode=V12]. In the perfect location for shoppers, right at the center of Singapore at the intersection of Orchard and Scotts, and with Tang's department store in the basement and an underground walkway to Orchard MRT. Prices surprisingly reasonable, but not quite as nice as the five-star options.
* '''Shangri-La'''. 22 Orange Grove Road, tel. 6737 3644, [http://www.shangri-la.com/eng/hotel/index.asp?id=34]. One of the world's most luxurious resort hotels. Beautiful grounds and pools. 755 guest rooms and suites.
==Contact==
* '''Library@Orchard'''. Ngee Ann City 5F, Orchard Rd. Offers free browsing of newspapers, magazines and books (including travel guides), plus the cheapest Internet access in town at $0.03 per minute.
* '''Singapore Visitors Centre'''. 160 Orchard Rd (''junction of Cairnhill and Orchard Rds''), tel. 1800 736 2000 (tollfree, 24 hours). Oodles of free information on Singapore. Open 8 AM to 10.30 PM daily. Under renovation in 2005, but still operating under the scaffolding.
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