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Singapore/ChinatownSingapore/ChinatownImage:Hawkers_SmithSt.JPG|thumb|Shophouses and hawkers, Smith St Singapore's '''Chinatown''' is the traditional Chinese quarters of town, and while the entire city is largely Chinese these days the area does retain some of its own charm. The area is also known as '''Niu Che Shui''' (???) in Chinese and '''Kreta Ayer''' in Malay, both names meaning "bullock cart water". The area between '''Pagoda Street''' and '''Smith Street''' has been tarted up considerably for tourists, but workaday Chinatown continues south and east, merging seamlessly into the Singapore/Central Business District|CBD. '''Tanjong Pagar''' is the unofficial home of Singapore's '''gay community''' with many watering holes in restored shophouses. ==Get in== Exit A (Pagoda Street) of North-East MRT line's '''Chinatown''' station will deposit you right in the heart of the action. Outram Park, Tanjong Pagar and Raffles Place are also all within walking distance, as is Clarke Quay and the Singapore River to the north. ==See== Chinatown's primary attraction is the town itself, composed as it is of restored shophouses full of strange little shops selling everything from plastic Buddhas to dried seahorses. Wander at random and see what you can find! * '''Chinatown Heritage Centre'''. 48 Pagoda St, [http://www.chinatownheritage.com.sg/]. An excellent museum chronicling how Chinatown came to be and the privation suffered by early migrants. Admission charges S$8 (adult) S$4.80 (child); the centre is on the left if you walk straight from the Pagoda St MRT exit. * '''Sri Mariamman Temple'''. 244 South Bridge Rd. Singapore's oldest and most important Hindu temple and worth a visit for the intricately carved ''gopuram'' (statuary above the entrance). Entrance is free, just take off your shoes and don't disturb the worshipers. ==Do== Probably the most strenuous activity in Chinatown is avoiding touting tailors — which, incidentally, is illegal and can be reported to the police. * The '''[http://www.toyfactory.org Toy Factory Theatre Ensemble]''' constantly pushed the limits of free expression in Singapore. Performances at the '''Attic''' (21 Tanjong Pagar Rd, 4F) and the '''Theatrette''' (17A Smith St). ==Buy== Image:Singapore_CNY_Tinsel.JPG|thumb|240px|Chinese New Year decorations on sale The central streets of Chinatown are packed with stalls selling all sorts of '''Chinese trinkets'''. There is also a cluster of (expensive) '''antique''' shops on South Bridge Rd. * '''Bee Cheng Hiang'''. [http://www.bch.com.sg/]. Among the Chinese, the obligatory souvenir is some sweet red ''bak kwa'' (barbequed pork), available both fresh off the grill and in convenient vacuum packs. There are outlets all over Singapore, but one is located immediately to the right of the Pagoda St MRT exit. Expect massive queues around Chinese New Year in February. * '''Tea Chapter'''. 9 Neil Rd, [http://www.tea-chapter.com.sg/]. Covered under #Drink|Drink, this store also retails a wide variety of not only Chinese tea itself, but all the paraphernalia needed to brew it. ==Eat== In Chinatown there is, needless to say, plenty of Chinese food to go around! Two good hunting grounds for cheap eats are '''Smith Street''', a single row of fancy stalls with the nicest ambiance of the lot and quite decent food too, and '''Chinatown Complex''' (junction of Smith and Terengganu Sts), which is one of Singapore's grungiest-looking hawker centres, but its 200+ stalls will satisfy even the most demanding Chinese gourmand. Most dishes in either location are less than $5, although seafood can get considerably more expensive. ===Budget=== * '''Akbar Restaurant'''. 2 Lim Teck Kim Rd. At the southernmost tip of Tanjong Pagar, this busy but friendly 24-hour coffeeshop (don't be fooled by the name) serves up a wide variety of Malay and Muslim Indian food, with the ''roti prata'' being the star of the menu. Most everything costs less than $5. * '''Outram Park Ya Hua Rou Gu Cha'''. 7 Keppel Rd #01-05/07 PSA Tanjong Pagar Complex. Popular ''bak kut teh'' specialist serving light, peppery Teochew-style pork rib soup. At the edge of the Port of Singapore, near the KTM railway station. Figure on $10 for two, closed Mondays. * '''Tong Heng'''. 285 South Bridge Road, [http://www.living2000.com.sg/TongHeng/]. Chinese bakery famed for its freshly-baked egg tarts (S$1), best washed down with a bottle of water chestnut juice. Tong Heng now has many other outlets, including one at Changi Airport, but this is the original. ===Midrange=== * '''OK Yong Tau Foo'''. 33 Mosque St. Specializes in homemade Hakka-style ''yong tau foo'', basically all sorts of tofu products in broth. Pick your own ingredients, choose a noodle type to go with it, and the staff will do the rest. Sounds simple, and so is the sparse decoration of this overgrown hawker stall (no air con), but the taste is heavenly and the queues at lunchtime formidable. Expect to pay around $10 a bowl (3 times the going price elsewhere). ** Note that the food is ''not'' vegetarian (the broth has meat) and many of the ingredients contain fish or mysterious pig parts, so ask if unsure. * '''Qun Zhong Eating House'''. 21 Neil Rd. Well-known for its dumplings, above all the Beijing-style ''jiaozi'', but the Shanghai-style ''xiao long bao'' aren't bad either. Large servings around $9, closed Wednesdays. * '''Soup Restaurant'''. 25 Smith St (''franchises in Suntec City, Jurong Point''). Offers not only excellent soup, but plenty of traditional Singaporean Chinese fare as well including their trademark '''samsui chicken''' (slow-boiled chicken eaten wrapped in lettuce with garlic sauce). Eat a Chinatown Heritage Course ($50 for two) for lunch and take the leftovers home for dinner. ===Splurge=== * '''Da Paolo'''. 80 Club St, tel. 62247081. An authentic and popular Italian restaurant known for its home-made pasta. Open daily for lunch and dinner (reservations recommended on weekends), expect to pay around $50 a head for a full meal. ==Drink== ===Alcohol=== '''Duxton Road''', '''Club St''' and '''Smith St''' have a large number of intimate pubs and bars, including not a few dodgy karaoke joints. Many of the second-floor bars and clubs in the area cater to Singapore's gay community, so look out for the rainbow flags. * '''Crêperie Ar-Men'''. 37 Duxton Rd, [http://www.creperie-armen.com/]. Offers not only authentic French crêpes and galettes, but a range of imported apple ciders and beers from Brittany ($20 for a 750 ml bottle). * '''The Sake Bar'''. 23 Neil Rd, tel. 62212803. Offers smooth jazz, a range of around 60 Japanese sakes and nibbles to go along with them. Fairly pricy with bottles in the $70-200 range, although a few are available in smaller bottles or by the glass. Closed Sundays. ===Tea=== * '''Tea Chapter'''. 9 Neil Rd, [http://www.tea-chapter.com.sg/]. Try this excellent tea house and shop for a spot of tea drinking Chinese style. A basic pot of tea and an introduction on how to brew it right starts at S$8, although some of the fancier brands (how about some ''Phoenix's Shrubbery''?) cost much more. Plain seats on the open 3rd floor are free, raised and partitioned seats on the 2nd cost an additional S$5 per head. ==Sleep== While there are a few ordinary hotels, the most interesting accommodation options in Chinatown and Tanjong Pagar are in '''renovated shophouses'''. ===Budget=== *'''A Travellers Rest-Stop'''. 5 Teck Lim Road. 62254812. [http://www.atravellersreststop.com.sg]. No lockout/curfew. Dorms, doubles/twins. A/C. Internet, laundry, left luggage, kitchen. *'''The Inn at Temple Street'''. 36 Temple Street. [http://www.theinn.com.sg/].1 minute walk from MRT and Chinatown shopping. Double room S$75. Nice downstairs restaurant, Oriental flavor, and nice curtains. ===Mid-range=== '''Keong Saik Road''', at the western edge of town, is a former red-light district which still retains more than its fair share of dodgy karaoke lounges — as well as a number of decent midrange shophouse hotels. * '''Hotel 1929'''. 50 Keong Saik Rd (''Outram Park MRT''), tel. +6663471929, [http://www.hotel1929.com]. TIME Asia's Boutique Hotel of the Year in 2004, this renovated super-stylish shophouse is best known for its extraordinary collection of chairs. All mod cons including flat-panel TVs and free broadband internet in every room, but the 'superior' rooms are tiny and steeply priced at S$110+++; you might want to consider splurging S$180 for one of the rooftop suites complete with outdoor hot tub. ===Splurge=== * '''M Hotel'''. 81 Anson Rd (''Tanjong Pagar MRT''), tel. +6664216120, [http://www.mhotel.com.sg/]. Stylish business hotel in the commercial heart of Tanjong Pagar, a short walk from Club St. Somewhat pricy with rooms averaging around S$200. * '''The Scarlet'''. 33 Erskine Rd, tel. +6666511333, [http://www.thescarlethotel.com]. Beyond mere boutiqueness, this "personality hotel" in a stretch of converted shophouses is stuffed with more red plush and gold trim than a Parisian boudoir and does its best to encourage all 7 deadly sins with restaurant Desire, bar Bold, spa Sanctum and gym Flaunt. Rooms are small but comfortable, good location right next to Maxwell Food Centre and the heart of Chinatown. Internet rates from S$145+++. WikiPedia:Chinatown, Singapore First page | Prev | Next | Last page |
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