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Singapore/Little India
Singapore/Little IndiaImage:SriVeeramakaliamman_Roof_Detail.JPG|thumb|240px|Detail of the Sri Veeramakaliamman temple
'''Little India''' is, as the name promises, the center for the large Indian community in Singapore. While a rather sanitized version of the India|real thing, Little India retains its distinct identity without degenerating into a mere tourist attraction and is one of the most colorful and attractive places to visit in Singapore.
Little India's main drag is '''Serangoon Road''', which starts at Rochor Canal Rd and continues northward to Serangoon itself. The action is tightly concentrated a few blocks on either side of the road, and can be easily covered on foot.
==Get in==
The North-East MRT line's '''Little India''' and '''Farrer Park''' stations, near Serangoon Road, are convenient entry points into the area. '''Bugis''' station on the East-West line is also within walking distance (see Singapore/Bugis|Bugis).
==See==
Little India's primary attraction is the town itself. Here too you can find the gaily painted shophouses that are an icon of Singapore, but now the Chinese signs (almost) disappear to be replaced with Tamil, Hindi, Bengali and other more exotic Indian scripts. Stores hawk ''saris'' and gold bangles, spices and incense waft in from the doorways and Bollywood's latest soundtracks blare from every other alleyway.
* '''[http://www.sriveeramakaliamman.com/ Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple]''' (141 Serangoon Road) is Little India's busiest and oldest temple, dating back to 1881 — although the present structure was completed in 1986. The temple is particularly busy on Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays.
==Do==
* The most extreme thing to do in Little India is to join the festival of '''Thaipusam''', held yearly during the full moon in the lunar month of Thai (usually Jan/Feb). Devotees attach ornate shrines to their flesh with piercing hooks known as ''kavadi'' and walk across town in a day-long procession. The procession starts from Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple in Serangoon Road.
* Around '''Deepavali''', the Hindu festival of light, Serangoon Road is festively decorated (with lights, of course!) and open-air markets are set up to sell Deepavali goodies. Like Thaipusam, the exact date is set by the lunar calendar, but it takes place in October/November and is a public holiday.
* A more low-key event happens every '''Sunday evening''' when a half-million workers from the subcontinent turn up in Little India to hang out on their day off.
==Buy==
The central streets of Little India are packed with stalls selling all sorts of Indian goods. Two giant shopping centres, however, are unique not just in Little India but all of Singapore:
* '''[http://www.mustafa.com.sg/ Mustafa Centre]''' (145 Syed Alwi Road, off Serangoon Rd near Farrer Park MRT) is Singapore's supreme discount department store: floor after floor of absolutely ''everything'' at rock-bottom prices, ranging from Rolex watches and washing machines to fresh mangoes, bags of lentils and tailored suits. Open 24 hours; the exchange counters in front are probably the best place in Singapore to exchange any currency you can think of (and many you can't) at competitive rates.
* '''Sim Lim Square''' (1 Rochor Canal Road), not actually in Little India but right across the street, is Singapore's Tokyo/Akihabara|Akihabara, a giant electronics mecca squeezed into one building, with hundreds upon hundreds of tightly packed specialist stores offering some of the most competitive prices for computers and consumers electronics in Asia. The first floor is for tourists, the upper floors and the back corridors are where the real deals can be found. Watch out for pricing tricks (omitting tax, selling included accessories separately, etc) and the occasional outright substitution fraud; unless you know exactly what you're doing and/or need something unusual, you might want to shop at Mustafa instead.
==Eat==
The thing to eat in Little India is obviously '''Indian food'''. Both southern and northern cuisines are well represented, food is cheap even by Singaporean standards, portions are generous and '''vegetarians''' in particular will have a field day. Note that these are authentic Indian places and people around you will be eating the way Indians do, namely India#Eating by hand|by hand — it's best to shed your inhibitions and dig in, although cutlery can be provided on request.
===Fish head curry===
One speciality of Little India is '''fish head curry''', a uniquely Singaporean dish. It's one of the stranger-sounding and admittedly stranger-looking dishes around: no, you don't eat the head itself, but there's plenty of meat to be found inside as the head in question barely fits on a plate! Cooked so long that it falls apart when poked at, just dig in and pile up the bones on your table. Eyeballs are not eaten, but the Chinese think the connective tissue behind it is the best part of the dish.
There are two types of fish head curry in Singapore, Chinese and Indian. Little India's fish head places unsurprisingly mostly serve the Indian kind, which is usually spicy and hot. Most specialty restaurants are on or near '''Race Course Rd''', conveniently located between the Little India and Farrer Park MRT stations.
* '''Banana Leaf Apolo''' (54-58 Race Course Rd) is a well-known place for all sorts of South Indian food; no prizes for guessing what serves as the plate. Even the "small" head is enough for 3-4 and will cost you S$18, plus S$2.50 a head for rice, pappadams and dips. Open daily 10 AM to 10 PM.
* '''Muthu's Curry''' (72-78 Race Course Rd) has a respectable claim to coming up with the dish; now run by the founder's son, this shop continues to draw the crowds. Fish heads S$16-25 depending on the size. Open daily from 10 AM to 10 PM.
===Restaurants===
Even if fish heads aren't your thing, there's plenty of good eating in Little India.
* '''Komala Vilas'''. 76-78 Serangoon Road, and other branches around town; [http://web.singnet.com.sg/~komala/]. A Singaporean institution featuring purely vegetarian Indian food. Downstairs is fast food, head up for restaurant-style seating and serving. Sets start at less than S$2 and even the largest platter of breads and dips will cost less than S$5. Open daily 11.30 AM to 10.30 PM, although not all dishes are available all day.
* '''Saravana Bhavan'''. 36 Belilios Lane; [http://www.saravanabhavan.com/br_sin2.htm]. The Singapore branch of a restaurant chain in Chennai, serving up vegetarian Indian food. Meals are a little small, but 3 meals for 2 will leave both of you stuffed and cost less than S$10. Try the ''rava dosa'', a steal at S$2.60.
* '''Jaggi's North Indian Cuisine'''. 34 Race Course Rd; [http://www.jaggis.com/]. Caters to meat-eaters too with a selection of tandoori dishes. Set meals from S$3, or mix and match at the counter.
* '''Delhi Restaurant'''. 60 Race Course Rd; branch on Serangoon Rd. Offers a more upmarket experience with vested waiters and a stack of awards posted on the wall. The menu features northern Indian food and has non-vegetarian selections as well; order a couple of Kingfisher beers to get ''pappadam'' with an excellent mint dip on the house. Mains S$10 and up.
==Drink==
'''Race Course Rd''' has some funky pubs and bars. '''Desker Road''' is Singapore's dingiest quarter of ill repute and best avoided, especially on Sundays.
==Sleep==
Little India is Singapore's backpacker district and has many hostels offering cheap lodging.
* '''The Inn Crowd''', 73 Dunlop Street, [http://www.the-inncrowd.com/]. A friendly backpacker hostel with an excellent website. Dorm beds $18, double rooms S$48 (for two), breakfast and internet access included.
WikiPedia:Little India, Singapore
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